Here is a slideshow with some of our pictures from the four countries that we visited in the Middle East. Turn on sound to listen.
Sunday, July 12, 2009
Friday, July 3, 2009
All Aboard Egypt
By Andrea McMahanCAIRO - After spending eight days in Egypt, it is easy to see how the country has earned a reputation as one of the most mesmerizing places on the planet. With its lush green landscape and miles of smooth Nile waters, it's not hard to get swept up by the sultry vibe of the city. After a few days one can’t help but feel transported to an entirely different place in time. However, it wasn't immediate smooth sailing. After fleeing Iran during the country's most tumultuous national elections, we landed in Cairo wild-eyed and dazed, eager to share our thoughts about the whole experience. As it turns out, the national media cared to listen thus beginning a three day whirlwind of studio appearances and media interviews. Which is not to say the whole experience was unwelcomed- quite the contrary. However, it did throw our initial plans of endless hours of sight seeing out the window. But this is a trip where we have come to expect the unexpected. So we embraced our 15 minutes of fame and, in the meantime, ended up making a series of encounters with fascinating people who were eager to share their own experiences about Egypt.
On our first night in Cairo we accepted an invitation to watch the USA versus Egypt soccer match with the Cairo producer of our Good Morning American segment, Daniel Radcliffe. We met Danielle at the Marriot hotel where we watched the American players deftly pounce their opponents on a movie-theater sized TV screen set outdoors. The weather was perfect for this drive-in style evening- mid 80’s, slightly balmy with a cool breeze. Much more tolerable than the 100+ day time temperatures we endured earlier that day. Over a couple of Egyptians beers, we got to know Daniel and learned that he is an American expat living in Cairo managing one of the largest video satellite and production companies in the city. A former Reuters reporter for 15 years, Daniel eventually found his way to Cairo via London where his family is still living temporarily. His wife, a successful writer for the New York Times Magazine and other publications, had stayed back in London at their flat while their three children finish out the school year. He expects the family to move to Cairo sometime in August—the first time they will have lived under the same roof in nearly a year. Aside from Daniel being an incredibly nice person, he’s also wicked smart and quite in tune with the political climate both abroad and in Egypt. Last fall Daniel headed up the Democrats Abroad organization and campaigned on behalf of President Obama while living in England. He told us about how Obama’s campaign had an arresting affect on the people in the EU and the Middle East (much as we had found) and he had seen first hand how the President’s recent speech in Cairo was able to resonate with a traditionally skeptical audience. We continued to see Daniel socially in Cairo and even had a meeting with his boss, Gohad, the head of Video Satellite Cairo (VSC). We learned that Gohad had been the official personal photographer to former Egyptian president Anwar Sadat and he shared with us his wonderful collection of photos and old cameras from his days on the presidential trail.
While in the VSC office, we taped a short segment about our experiences on Iran for an Austrian news channel. The segment was produced by an Austrian journalist named Karim who was also in Tehran for the elections. We talked at length about the impaling situation in Iran and the sad fate of the Iranian people. We also talked about the chances for foreign engagement and the implications that these protests- and the government’s iron fisted response- will have on the surrounding region. Look for Justin’s article on our discussion in an upcomimg Dispatches blog. Suffice it to say, everyone was intrigued to hear about our experiences and it was nice to meet people who shared our same fascinations and hopes for progress in Iran.
Another interesting person we met during those first days in Cairo was Shawn Baldwin, who Justin knows from his days at the EastWest Institute. We were connected to Shawn by Karen Mroz, who thought we would get along well given our interest in the Middle East. She was right- Shawn was a fantastic host who took us to an open-air Italian restaurant and entertained us with his harrowing stories of traveling through the Middle East as a war photographer for the New York Times. While he currently resides in Cairo, Shawn has traveled extensively throughout the Middle East, spending significant time in Iran, Saudi Arabia, Syria, Jordan and other places. Prior to moving to Cairo, he spent three years living in Baghdad in a boarding house with other Times journalists and Blackwater personnel. He described his time as less Full Metal Jacket and more like M*A*S*H as he and his fellow journalists were often confined to the house when violence intensified on the streets. However, that didn’t stop Shawn from capturing some incredible photos of the Iraqi people and their lives—check out his full portfolio at www.shawnbaldwin.com.
When we weren’t traipsing around with the Egyptian journalist set, we were able to take in the sights on Cairo, going first to the stupendous Pyramids of Giza and the Sphinx. There we marveled at these gorgeous sandstone structures and wondered how it was possible that such dominating landmarks could be found in the middle of the open desert. We also gawked at the onslaught of camel drivers and beaded jewelry vendors—these guys are relentless! Their tenacity gives new meaning to the words “hard sell”. Later we visited the Egyptian National Museum and saw the famous tomb of King Tut and his solid gold Egyptian mask. The museum is a monstrous collection of Egyptian artwork and artifacts that spans hundreds of thousands of years. Unfortunately the collection is not as meticulously organized as we’d hoped, and so after much aimless wandering through the museum without air conditioning, we retreated to the temple of coca cola outside.
Upon leaving Cairo we headed south to Aswan for a four day, three night cruise down the Nile. We started off our trip by catching the overnight train to Aswan- an 800 kilometer journey that is best done by either airplane or sleeper train. Conjouring up visions of a romantic, Orient Express-style experience, we opted for the sleeper train and were pleasantly surprised. While the train itself was not exactly the epitome of white-gloved luxury, our cabin was clean and efficiently designed with several helpful amenities including two twin beds that folded down from the wall, a small sink, hooks and storage for luggage, and two on-board, airplane style meals- with wine! But it was waking up in the early morning and peeking outside the window to see the gorgeous, lush Egyptian countryside float by that gave the experience a well-deserved 5 stars. For traveling down the Nile, it’s a must!
Once we arrived in Aswan, we boarded our ship, the Nile Star Goddess. As a cruising tyro, I really didn’t know what to expect from a cruise ship. I was hoping that at least the towels would be clean and the rooms fixed with air conditioning. I was actually blown away by the loveliness of our boat! Ours was a four-level ship with spacious rooms all equipped with satellite TV and AC. We had a helpful, friendly staff that bent over backwards to make sure we were taken care of and served us three full buffet meals each day, which were quite good. And we were fortunate to meet some fantastic people on board the ship—John & Estella and Mike & Jenny. All four were Americans who had come to Egypt wanting to see the ancient remnants of civilization. In fact, John and Estella were embarking on a seven week trip around the world, visiting such places as Egypt, Thailand, Indonesia and South Africa. Recently married and living in Los Angeles, we instantly bonded with this doctor-nurse couple over our common California ties and our passion for traveling. We hope to perhaps see them in LA sometime soon.
Between the daily sightseeing and on-board activities that were mapped out for us each day, it was hard to carve out much free time. However, the staff tried hard to be flexible in allowing us to see what we want, at our own pace. And we saw some incredible landmarks, from Valley of the Kings and Queens to the Temple of Karnak and Luxor. Southern Egypt has an extraordinarily rich and tangled history and its vast collection of ancient artifacts can be overwhelming. However, despite the scorching sun we managed to see both Aswan’s and Luxor’s most impressive sights in just four days, and even squeaked in some sun bathing time on the boat.
At the conclusion of our cruise, we disembarked the ship and spent a few hours touring the town of Luxor. Both Justin and I were enchanted by the town’s quaint architecture and easygoing feel. Horse-drawn carriages filled the streets while women with children strolled the sidewalks talking with vendors and lingering in the town squares. It had a feel to it that was so different from Cairo, and it was this small-town charm that drew us in. We stayed and had dinner at the lovely local Egyptian restaurant Sofra that is housed in an old traditional Egyptian house replete with garden seating, ceiling fans and plush, colorful cushions. The restaurant bowled Justin over with its roast pigeon and rice dish and we both left feeling grateful for an authentic Egyptian dining experience.
We headed back to the train station in Luxor and boarded our overnight cabin to Cairo. We then spent the last 48 hours in Egypt trying to make up for lost time- Justin scrambling to get meetings with the last of his contacts and me hitting the streets for some desperate gift-buying and overdue shopping. We said goodbye to the Sheraton Cairo- our home for many nights- and caught a 1pm plane back to Istanbul. But not before we had one last night at Sequoia, our restaurant of choice in Cairo. Set along the Nile with spectacular water-front views, this ultra-chic outdoor lounge and restaurant looks like it was transported from South Beach to Cairo. The tables are low to the ground and surrounded with plush white cushions while billowing silk drapes frame the outer rim of the restaurant. The sweet smell of fruity sheesha and water pipes wafts through the restaurant. Justin and I order our usual four plates of sushi and a bottle of Egyptian white wine, and then settle in to reflect on the last six weeks of our journey.
As you might expect, our overall conclusions and feelings about this trip are too numerous to count and will have to be articulated in further detail. But to give you an idea, you must know that when we finally said goodbye to Cairo and boarded our plane back to Istanbul it was with the heaviest of hearts. This trip was more than just a vacation, as you may have already surmised. It was a life-altering experience that opened my eyes to a region, culture and people that until now I had struggled to understand or witnessed in any full dimension. The images and conversations from this trip are inerasable and will continue to speak to me daily for the rest of my life. I can only take comfort in knowing that this trip marks not the end but rather the beginning of a life that will continue to seek meaning and forge connections with people who are seemingly unlike me. Because in the end, isn’t that what every great journey is destined to be?
Monday, June 22, 2009
Justin and Andrea Speak with GMA Re Iran
CAIRO - We left Iran and, after 12 hours of travel, are now in Egypt. Upon landing, we taped an interview for Good Morning America on ABC News about our experiences there. The piece, titled "US Tourists Witness Iranian Protests," aired Sunday morning but you can see the full video clip by going to http://abcnews.go.com/video/playerIndex?id=7892189The segment is also on the abcnews.com homepage ticker. Bear in mind, we did this on virtually no sleep and having come straight off the plane! We look forward to your comments. You can also listen to Justin's phone interview with Kate, taped earlier, here: http://abcnews.go.com/video/playerIndex?id=7891347
Hope Fading, the Iranian People Look to Mr. Obama
By Justin McMahan
June 21, 2009
Note: Andrea and I left Tehran yesterday. We had no choice, really. So many people, fearing arrest, or worse, are getting out while they still can. We will continue to blog from Cairo.
CAIRO – A few days ago, John Kerry penned an op-ed in the New York Times in whi
ch he admonished fellow Senator John McCain for criticizing President Obama’s “tepid” response to the Iranian opposition demonstrations. Kerry was right. Mr. McCain’s desire to take on every super or regional power on behalf of the little guy is well intentioned, but ill advised. It would have been a big mistake for the U.S. to insert itself publicly into the Iranian fray, until yesterday.
Until yesterday, the Mousavi-led opposition movement was a force to be reckoned with. The former Prime Minister had the power to summon one million Iranians to Enghelab Square with little more than a rally announcement. Until yesterday, no one knew where the Mousavi train was heading. What was known is that the people who were willing to take to the streets in opposition to the current government far outnumbered those willing to do the same in support of it.
Until yesterday, it would have been a mistake for President Obama to publicly back Mousavi for two reasons. First, this was an election by Iranians, for Iranians. As many opposition supporters told me, vociferous White House support for Mousavi would only serve to undermine the cause.
When Obama made plain his desire to reach out to Iran, he removed the foreign enemy that serves to unite domestic support behind the President and Supreme Leader. Today, the Iranian government needs The Great Satan more than ever. In his sermon at Tehran University last Friday, the Supreme Leader endeavored to cast the UK in that role. That the UK has replaced temporarily the US as The Great Satan is likely due to the BBC’s omnipresent coverage of the current crisis. If CNN had been on the ground during the election, no way the UK would have stolen our Great Satan crown.
Just after the election, a story ran about the break-up of an Israeli plot to bomb twenty mosques on election day. It is impossible to know for sure, but I would bet good money that the motive was the same – to cast Israel in the role of villain of the Islamic Republic. Israel might one day strike the Natanz nuclear facility, but bombing twenty mosques on election day is just not their style. On a side note, having driven by the Natanz facility, I can attest that those puny anti-aircraft guns would not stand a chance in the event of an airstrike.
The second reason it would have been a mistake to publicly back Mousavi is that the US will need to deal with whichever government is in power. Had Obama come out for Mousavi the man, he would have started behind the eight ball in the talks that will likely take place by the end of the year with the Ahmadinejad regime .
But all that changed on Saturday. The outcome of the election is no longer in question. When the Supreme Leader followed through on his promise to crack down on opposition supporters, he took the wind out of the Mousavi sails. On that fateful afternoon, try as I might, I could not find a strand of green fabric within a five block radius of Enghelab hotel, because those seen wearing green were beaten by the police or Basij Militia.
Today, those who oppose the Ahmadinejad government are looking for some sign of hope. They are looking to Mr. Obama.
Now is the time for the President to make public his belief in the right of the Iranian people to gather publicly without fearing a Basiji beating. Supporters of Mr. Ahmadinejad have the right to demonstrate publicly. That right should be extended to all Iranians.
This is not a partisan position. It is a human rights position. The Iranian people have fought a valiant fight for the right to have their vote counted. They have sacrificed a great deal. Hundreds have been arrested. Some, like Neda, have been killed. The Iranian people love Americans, and they love Mr. Obama especially. As the leader of the free world, he should offer them some words of support. The Iranian people would never forget it.
...read more
June 21, 2009
Note: Andrea and I left Tehran yesterday. We had no choice, really. So many people, fearing arrest, or worse, are getting out while they still can. We will continue to blog from Cairo.
CAIRO – A few days ago, John Kerry penned an op-ed in the New York Times in whi
ch he admonished fellow Senator John McCain for criticizing President Obama’s “tepid” response to the Iranian opposition demonstrations. Kerry was right. Mr. McCain’s desire to take on every super or regional power on behalf of the little guy is well intentioned, but ill advised. It would have been a big mistake for the U.S. to insert itself publicly into the Iranian fray, until yesterday.Until yesterday, the Mousavi-led opposition movement was a force to be reckoned with. The former Prime Minister had the power to summon one million Iranians to Enghelab Square with little more than a rally announcement. Until yesterday, no one knew where the Mousavi train was heading. What was known is that the people who were willing to take to the streets in opposition to the current government far outnumbered those willing to do the same in support of it.
Until yesterday, it would have been a mistake for President Obama to publicly back Mousavi for two reasons. First, this was an election by Iranians, for Iranians. As many opposition supporters told me, vociferous White House support for Mousavi would only serve to undermine the cause.
When Obama made plain his desire to reach out to Iran, he removed the foreign enemy that serves to unite domestic support behind the President and Supreme Leader. Today, the Iranian government needs The Great Satan more than ever. In his sermon at Tehran University last Friday, the Supreme Leader endeavored to cast the UK in that role. That the UK has replaced temporarily the US as The Great Satan is likely due to the BBC’s omnipresent coverage of the current crisis. If CNN had been on the ground during the election, no way the UK would have stolen our Great Satan crown.Just after the election, a story ran about the break-up of an Israeli plot to bomb twenty mosques on election day. It is impossible to know for sure, but I would bet good money that the motive was the same – to cast Israel in the role of villain of the Islamic Republic. Israel might one day strike the Natanz nuclear facility, but bombing twenty mosques on election day is just not their style. On a side note, having driven by the Natanz facility, I can attest that those puny anti-aircraft guns would not stand a chance in the event of an airstrike.
The second reason it would have been a mistake to publicly back Mousavi is that the US will need to deal with whichever government is in power. Had Obama come out for Mousavi the man, he would have started behind the eight ball in the talks that will likely take place by the end of the year with the Ahmadinejad regime .
But all that changed on Saturday. The outcome of the election is no longer in question. When the Supreme Leader followed through on his promise to crack down on opposition supporters, he took the wind out of the Mousavi sails. On that fateful afternoon, try as I might, I could not find a strand of green fabric within a five block radius of Enghelab hotel, because those seen wearing green were beaten by the police or Basij Militia.Today, those who oppose the Ahmadinejad government are looking for some sign of hope. They are looking to Mr. Obama.
Now is the time for the President to make public his belief in the right of the Iranian people to gather publicly without fearing a Basiji beating. Supporters of Mr. Ahmadinejad have the right to demonstrate publicly. That right should be extended to all Iranians.
This is not a partisan position. It is a human rights position. The Iranian people have fought a valiant fight for the right to have their vote counted. They have sacrificed a great deal. Hundreds have been arrested. Some, like Neda, have been killed. The Iranian people love Americans, and they love Mr. Obama especially. As the leader of the free world, he should offer them some words of support. The Iranian people would never forget it....read more
Saturday, June 20, 2009
Supreme Leader Follows Through on Promise to Crack Down on Protesters
By Justin McMahan
June 20, 2009
TEHRAN - Police and Basij militia indiscriminately clubbed bystanders. Women screamed as a large group of Tehranis came running around a street corner toward us. We could not see from what they were running, but that it was Basijis administering brutal beatings is likely.
Today we learned that the Supreme Leader meant what he said yesterday at Tehran University. Opposition protests will no longer be tolerated. There were police dispatched all over the city. More than a mile from Enghelab (revolution) Square, I saw them stopping pedestrians, searching backpacks and throwing green scarves – a sign of support for the opposition – on the ground. Closer to the demonstration site, police employed water canons, tear gas and batons to break up the rally.
Around Eghelab hotel, where we are staying, I could not find a single person wearing green. Many walked briskly in the opposite direction of the planned protest site. Some looked as if they had planned to demonstrate, but then thought better of it. It is impossible to know for sure. In addition to the thousands of cops in camouflage, brandishing shields, helmets and clubs, there were thousands more in plain clothes armed with the same gear. They looked as though they might have stopped at the club store on the way home from work, then come to practice crowd control in the city center. It was one of these young guys who told us that a certain street was closed off. We turned and walked the other way.
Together with “Jerry,” our guide, we jumped into a taxi bus. After driving a few blocks, we were stopped dead in traffic, so we got out to walk. It was then that the chaos erupted. People were running and screaming. Most of them probably had no intention of joining the protest. Jerry steered us through a phalanx of riot police. As we approached another crowd of police, a few of them unleashed their batons on a man running down the alley. As Jerry reminded us several times, never run when the Basijis come, because they will assume you are among the protesters.
In this writer’s humble opinion, the opposition movement may not be over forever, but it is over for now. We leave Tehran in five hours.
...read more
June 20, 2009
TEHRAN - Police and Basij militia indiscriminately clubbed bystanders. Women screamed as a large group of Tehranis came running around a street corner toward us. We could not see from what they were running, but that it was Basijis administering brutal beatings is likely.
Today we learned that the Supreme Leader meant what he said yesterday at Tehran University. Opposition protests will no longer be tolerated. There were police dispatched all over the city. More than a mile from Enghelab (revolution) Square, I saw them stopping pedestrians, searching backpacks and throwing green scarves – a sign of support for the opposition – on the ground. Closer to the demonstration site, police employed water canons, tear gas and batons to break up the rally.
Around Eghelab hotel, where we are staying, I could not find a single person wearing green. Many walked briskly in the opposite direction of the planned protest site. Some looked as if they had planned to demonstrate, but then thought better of it. It is impossible to know for sure. In addition to the thousands of cops in camouflage, brandishing shields, helmets and clubs, there were thousands more in plain clothes armed with the same gear. They looked as though they might have stopped at the club store on the way home from work, then come to practice crowd control in the city center. It was one of these young guys who told us that a certain street was closed off. We turned and walked the other way.
Together with “Jerry,” our guide, we jumped into a taxi bus. After driving a few blocks, we were stopped dead in traffic, so we got out to walk. It was then that the chaos erupted. People were running and screaming. Most of them probably had no intention of joining the protest. Jerry steered us through a phalanx of riot police. As we approached another crowd of police, a few of them unleashed their batons on a man running down the alley. As Jerry reminded us several times, never run when the Basijis come, because they will assume you are among the protesters.
In this writer’s humble opinion, the opposition movement may not be over forever, but it is over for now. We leave Tehran in five hours.
...read more
Supreme Leader Speech Poses Grave Dilemma for Opposition
June 19, 2009
By Andrea McMahan
TEHRAN - It is a dismal day here in Tehran. The opposition is struggling to keep itself together after being dealt a heavy blow yesterday. In a speech given at Tehran University, the Ayatollah Ali Khamenei, Iran’s Supreme Leader, said in no unclear terms that any further election protests are unacceptable by the government, and those persons choosing to participate in the protests would be breaking the law and face grave consequences. In addition, he stated that the elections were devoid of any cheating and that he unequivocally backed former President Mahmoud Ahmadinejad as the winner. This was a striking change in tone from earlier in the week, when the Ayatollah said that the government was looking into allegations of election fraud and had appointed a Guardian Council made up of the country’s clerical establishment to investigate disputed ballots. The Council was set to offer an answer on the election within ten days.
But instead they have now issued a warning to the people of Iran: if you do not accept the election outcome or any of our terms, you will be punished. They have said they will not tolerate dissent and will use the government’s power- presumably military force- to squelch further debate. Obviously the Opposition has a very difficult decision to make. They either continue to rally in the streets and face violent consequences—even possible death-- from the government’s Revolutionary Guard and Basiji, or they go under ground and risk losing the critical momentum that has helped propel their cause.
It is not confirmed where the Opposition’s presidential candidate, Mir Hussein Moussavi, is right now. Some say he is detained under house arrest while others claim he is moving surreptisously around the city. He continues to maintain a facebook page, offering details on upcoming protests and heightening rhetoric around the dissident’s cause. His supporters have found creative ways to access these updates since Facebook, Twitter and other social networking sites have been blocked across the country, mainly by tapping into friends and family abroad who can relay his message. However, most agree that it is only a matter of time before Mir Moussavi is arrested by the government, after which supporters have said there will almost certainly be even greater upheaval.
Either way, the outcome is bleak for the Opposition’s future. At a small gathering in Northern Iran yesterday, I was able to talk to several of the Opposition’s supporters and get a sense as to where they go from here. Many of them said they were feeling depressed, that the day’s speech had left them hurt but not entirely broken. They agreed it was not enough to deter them from marching in the protests Saturday and described how they would continue to ‘protest in silence’ by carrying signs that read “Where is your 63 percent?” rather than shouting slogans. They emphasized that theirs is a peaceful movement and acknowledged that it would almost certainly be met with violence in the hands of the regime. One Iranian woman, an art gallery owner, explained to me why she was willing to risk her life to march. “We have to do this,” she said. “If we don’t get out there and protest they [the government] will think it’s okay and they have to be stopped. We cannot live like this.”
...read more
By Andrea McMahan
TEHRAN - It is a dismal day here in Tehran. The opposition is struggling to keep itself together after being dealt a heavy blow yesterday. In a speech given at Tehran University, the Ayatollah Ali Khamenei, Iran’s Supreme Leader, said in no unclear terms that any further election protests are unacceptable by the government, and those persons choosing to participate in the protests would be breaking the law and face grave consequences. In addition, he stated that the elections were devoid of any cheating and that he unequivocally backed former President Mahmoud Ahmadinejad as the winner. This was a striking change in tone from earlier in the week, when the Ayatollah said that the government was looking into allegations of election fraud and had appointed a Guardian Council made up of the country’s clerical establishment to investigate disputed ballots. The Council was set to offer an answer on the election within ten days.
But instead they have now issued a warning to the people of Iran: if you do not accept the election outcome or any of our terms, you will be punished. They have said they will not tolerate dissent and will use the government’s power- presumably military force- to squelch further debate. Obviously the Opposition has a very difficult decision to make. They either continue to rally in the streets and face violent consequences—even possible death-- from the government’s Revolutionary Guard and Basiji, or they go under ground and risk losing the critical momentum that has helped propel their cause.
It is not confirmed where the Opposition’s presidential candidate, Mir Hussein Moussavi, is right now. Some say he is detained under house arrest while others claim he is moving surreptisously around the city. He continues to maintain a facebook page, offering details on upcoming protests and heightening rhetoric around the dissident’s cause. His supporters have found creative ways to access these updates since Facebook, Twitter and other social networking sites have been blocked across the country, mainly by tapping into friends and family abroad who can relay his message. However, most agree that it is only a matter of time before Mir Moussavi is arrested by the government, after which supporters have said there will almost certainly be even greater upheaval.
Either way, the outcome is bleak for the Opposition’s future. At a small gathering in Northern Iran yesterday, I was able to talk to several of the Opposition’s supporters and get a sense as to where they go from here. Many of them said they were feeling depressed, that the day’s speech had left them hurt but not entirely broken. They agreed it was not enough to deter them from marching in the protests Saturday and described how they would continue to ‘protest in silence’ by carrying signs that read “Where is your 63 percent?” rather than shouting slogans. They emphasized that theirs is a peaceful movement and acknowledged that it would almost certainly be met with violence in the hands of the regime. One Iranian woman, an art gallery owner, explained to me why she was willing to risk her life to march. “We have to do this,” she said. “If we don’t get out there and protest they [the government] will think it’s okay and they have to be stopped. We cannot live like this.”
...read more
Happy Birthday Vanessa!
As the Iranian communications death grip tightens and I am unable to use Skype to call my little sister, I must use this space to wish her the happiest of birthdays. Happy Birthday, Vanessa...I love you very much!! - Justin
Thursday, June 18, 2009
Iran in Pictures
By Andrea and Justin McMahan
June 18, 2009
ESFAHAN, Iran - Looking out the window of the Abbasi hotel in central Esfahan, all appears normal. Iranians seem more concerned with the fate of the national football team (six players wear green wristbands to show their support for the opposition) than with their struggle for free and fair elections. If tonight is to bring more protests, there is no sign of it yet.
In a few days, we will leave Iran. As we near the end of our time here, it seemed appropriate to share a few pictures. It is too risky now to photograph the protests, but we have been able to shoot some sites as well as the people who live in this country in turmoil. Turn on sound to listen.
June 18, 2009
ESFAHAN, Iran - Looking out the window of the Abbasi hotel in central Esfahan, all appears normal. Iranians seem more concerned with the fate of the national football team (six players wear green wristbands to show their support for the opposition) than with their struggle for free and fair elections. If tonight is to bring more protests, there is no sign of it yet.
In a few days, we will leave Iran. As we near the end of our time here, it seemed appropriate to share a few pictures. It is too risky now to photograph the protests, but we have been able to shoot some sites as well as the people who live in this country in turmoil. Turn on sound to listen.
Wednesday, June 17, 2009
An Esfahan Encounter
By Andrea and Justin McMahan
June 17, 2009
ESFAHAN, Iran - This morning, we climbed the Fire Temple for a better view of this city in which Iranians take so much pride. At the top, a man (pictured, right) asked where we were fro
m, and was delighted to hear that we are from the States. Turns out he is a dual citizen who lives most of the time in Portland, Oregon, where he works as an engineer at Intel. Like us, he was touring the sites with his two nephews (also pictured). Without prompting, he spoke passionately about his love for America and his belief in the value of Iranians and Americans getting to know each other better. He is pleased that two of his Iranian family members are marrying Americans, but concerned about the ability of the American guests to keep up on the dance floor.
Our chance encounter was yet another example of a people who hold moderate positions, have nothing against Israel and resent their President, Mr Ahmadinejad, whose bellicose rhetoric, they say, is hardly representative of their views. Granted, a dual citizen is more likely than your average Iranian to support the opposition, but we have struggled to pinpoint the source of the supposed support for the current President. Some say it comes from the villages and rural areas, but yesterday we drove through much of the country on our way from Shiraz to Esfahan, and we can attest...there ain't no villages. The vast stretch of land in the center of the country is desert, with a smattering of wheat farmers and goat herders, hardly the rural masses that the government says came out in droves to vote for Mr Ahmadinejad.
Former PM and opposition leader Mousavi has decreed that tomorrow (Thursday) will be a day of mourning in honor of the protesters who were shot and killed in Tehran. That mourning will morph into protests is likely.
We are still unable to access facebook, twitter, BBC and many other media sites. Text messaging has not yet been turned on, though our local mobile phone (+98 937 96 39 523) is now, mercifully, working.
Today, the government issued a warning to anyone photographing protests. This will make it difficult for even Iranian citizens, well known for documenting the protests, from capturing the images that you have seen during the past five days. The government also said they will be cracking down on website and blogs. Fortunately, ours is just a touring blog. ...read more
June 17, 2009
ESFAHAN, Iran - This morning, we climbed the Fire Temple for a better view of this city in which Iranians take so much pride. At the top, a man (pictured, right) asked where we were fro
m, and was delighted to hear that we are from the States. Turns out he is a dual citizen who lives most of the time in Portland, Oregon, where he works as an engineer at Intel. Like us, he was touring the sites with his two nephews (also pictured). Without prompting, he spoke passionately about his love for America and his belief in the value of Iranians and Americans getting to know each other better. He is pleased that two of his Iranian family members are marrying Americans, but concerned about the ability of the American guests to keep up on the dance floor.
Our chance encounter was yet another example of a people who hold moderate positions, have nothing against Israel and resent their President, Mr Ahmadinejad, whose bellicose rhetoric, they say, is hardly representative of their views. Granted, a dual citizen is more likely than your average Iranian to support the opposition, but we have struggled to pinpoint the source of the supposed support for the current President. Some say it comes from the villages and rural areas, but yesterday we drove through much of the country on our way from Shiraz to Esfahan, and we can attest...there ain't no villages. The vast stretch of land in the center of the country is desert, with a smattering of wheat farmers and goat herders, hardly the rural masses that the government says came out in droves to vote for Mr Ahmadinejad.Former PM and opposition leader Mousavi has decreed that tomorrow (Thursday) will be a day of mourning in honor of the protesters who were shot and killed in Tehran. That mourning will morph into protests is likely.
We are still unable to access facebook, twitter, BBC and many other media sites. Text messaging has not yet been turned on, though our local mobile phone (+98 937 96 39 523) is now, mercifully, working.
Today, the government issued a warning to anyone photographing protests. This will make it difficult for even Iranian citizens, well known for documenting the protests, from capturing the images that you have seen during the past five days. The government also said they will be cracking down on website and blogs. Fortunately, ours is just a touring blog. ...read more
Tuesday, June 16, 2009
Reflections on Iran's Youth
By Andrea McMahan
SHIRAZ, IRAN - First I want to acknowledge the outpouring of support and concern many of you have expressed in the last couple of days. Please rest assured that we are ok and out of harm’s way. We are really enjoying our time in Iran, meeting new people and watching a country wade through one of the most politically pivotal events in more than 30 years.
The whole experience has been somewhat surreal but has also served as a valuable wake up call to me. You can never appreciate your unwavering American freedoms until you experience an election in a developing world. I can recall so many times when I’ve shied away from a local election in my town because I was simply too busy or not interested. But the ability to vote and the knowledge that my vote would be counted equally and fairly never registered any doubt in my mind. Ever. And here I am watching a national presidential election unfold before my eyes, where millions of people have gone to the polls to cast their own sacred vote only to find it may never have made its ways out of the ballot box. The anger and betrayal one might feel is unbearable. It is hard not to feel a tremendous sympathy for this country, but more than that a kind of approbation for those mad-as-hell Iranians who flock to the streets night after night carrying their green bandanas and demanding justice.
My heart particularly breaks for the young people of Iran. Prior to the election, I had spoken with several young persons about the current state of politics and all of them were adamant in their disapproval for the current government. They said that they wanted to improve their country’s relations with the rest of their world, that they hated neither Israel nor America, and that they just wanted to live like other people their age are living in places like Europe and Dubai. And none felt this was possible under the current regime. They also talked about being stripped of everyday, practical conveniences that I enjoy unencumbered. For example, many divulged how frustrated they were with wanting to take their girlfriend on a date or travel somewhere together but couldn’t because of all of “the rules”. Others talked about wanting to visit America so badly but could never obtain a visa. Many also openly condemned their president and compared him outright to former President George W. Bush, saying that neither actually carried the support of the people and both operated on a platform of fear and deception. It is these young voices and all of their ambitions that I mourn here in Iran. So many of them came out en masse to peacefully cast a vote for their preferred candidate—and they played by the rules all the way to the ballot box. And now many of them must live with unanswered questions of whether their vote was ever tallied. I’ve heard some of them say, “If the government does not listen to the people, then I will never vote in Iran again.” I am afraid to believe them but their anger and cynicism is too real to ignore.
I hope the people of Iran—particularly the youth of this country- get the answers they deserve. Because when half of the country is ommitted from any electoral process that isn’t democracy. And that is the risk here in Iran, where more than 40 percent of the country is between the ages of 14 and 26, and where the youth will determine the fate of this nation, ultimately with or without the ballots.
...read more
SHIRAZ, IRAN - First I want to acknowledge the outpouring of support and concern many of you have expressed in the last couple of days. Please rest assured that we are ok and out of harm’s way. We are really enjoying our time in Iran, meeting new people and watching a country wade through one of the most politically pivotal events in more than 30 years.
The whole experience has been somewhat surreal but has also served as a valuable wake up call to me. You can never appreciate your unwavering American freedoms until you experience an election in a developing world. I can recall so many times when I’ve shied away from a local election in my town because I was simply too busy or not interested. But the ability to vote and the knowledge that my vote would be counted equally and fairly never registered any doubt in my mind. Ever. And here I am watching a national presidential election unfold before my eyes, where millions of people have gone to the polls to cast their own sacred vote only to find it may never have made its ways out of the ballot box. The anger and betrayal one might feel is unbearable. It is hard not to feel a tremendous sympathy for this country, but more than that a kind of approbation for those mad-as-hell Iranians who flock to the streets night after night carrying their green bandanas and demanding justice.
My heart particularly breaks for the young people of Iran. Prior to the election, I had spoken with several young persons about the current state of politics and all of them were adamant in their disapproval for the current government. They said that they wanted to improve their country’s relations with the rest of their world, that they hated neither Israel nor America, and that they just wanted to live like other people their age are living in places like Europe and Dubai. And none felt this was possible under the current regime. They also talked about being stripped of everyday, practical conveniences that I enjoy unencumbered. For example, many divulged how frustrated they were with wanting to take their girlfriend on a date or travel somewhere together but couldn’t because of all of “the rules”. Others talked about wanting to visit America so badly but could never obtain a visa. Many also openly condemned their president and compared him outright to former President George W. Bush, saying that neither actually carried the support of the people and both operated on a platform of fear and deception. It is these young voices and all of their ambitions that I mourn here in Iran. So many of them came out en masse to peacefully cast a vote for their preferred candidate—and they played by the rules all the way to the ballot box. And now many of them must live with unanswered questions of whether their vote was ever tallied. I’ve heard some of them say, “If the government does not listen to the people, then I will never vote in Iran again.” I am afraid to believe them but their anger and cynicism is too real to ignore.
I hope the people of Iran—particularly the youth of this country- get the answers they deserve. Because when half of the country is ommitted from any electoral process that isn’t democracy. And that is the risk here in Iran, where more than 40 percent of the country is between the ages of 14 and 26, and where the youth will determine the fate of this nation, ultimately with or without the ballots.
...read more
Monday, June 15, 2009
Shiraz Protests a Shadow of Events in Tehran
June 15, 2009
By Justin McMahan
SHIRAZ, Iran – Early this morning, we caught a flight to the Iranian city of S
hiraz. Throughout most of the day, all was calm in this sleepy southern city. At lunch, two boys (pictured at right) wandered over to our table and asked to have their picture taken with us. Other locals stopped us on the street just to say hello, ask us where we are from and welcome us to their country.
This even
ing, we browsed the local souq, snapping pictures of local merchants, many of whom held up the peace sign, which has come to signify support for former Prime Minister Mousavi. A few minutes after we purchased a locally made scarf, a merchant said something in Farsi to Ahmed, our guide. The message: get the foreigners out of here. Something is going to go down. Within a span of two minutes, the market transformed from a scene of casual shopping for fabric, nuts and other sundries to a frenzied attempt to put goods away and close up shop. Ahmed ushered us down a side alley. Soon we were outside, and everything appeared fine, save for a taxi driver who told Ahmed to be careful with us. We made it back to the hotel no problem.
On the way to dinner, the troops were again out in force, anticipating another prot
est. Like many of the youth here, many just looked bored. One overweight officer was lounging against a tree. Other men were standing around, some staring at their feet.
On the way back to the hotel, they had closed the main road, which seemed to do the trick. One thing is for sure: the reaction to the election in Shiraz is nothing like what it is happening in Tehran.
On another note, if there is one thing I have learned during my time in this country, it is that Iranians love Americans. During my first days here, I identified myself as English, which I am, technically. But I soon realized that I get much more mileage out of my American identity. Britain and Iran have a troubled history. In the eyes of Iranians, Britain embodies imperialism. That may be one reason why the government is trying to purchase the second UK embassy up in the hills near the palace of Shah Pahlavi. The Brits also have a huge compound right in the center of town.
But there is more to it than that. Ahmed, our guide, explained that Iranians appreciate the warmth and openness that Americans show to others who they hardly know. Maybe that it because Iranians are much the same way. Either way, it makes me proud to be an American.
...read more
By Justin McMahan
SHIRAZ, Iran – Early this morning, we caught a flight to the Iranian city of S
hiraz. Throughout most of the day, all was calm in this sleepy southern city. At lunch, two boys (pictured at right) wandered over to our table and asked to have their picture taken with us. Other locals stopped us on the street just to say hello, ask us where we are from and welcome us to their country.This even
ing, we browsed the local souq, snapping pictures of local merchants, many of whom held up the peace sign, which has come to signify support for former Prime Minister Mousavi. A few minutes after we purchased a locally made scarf, a merchant said something in Farsi to Ahmed, our guide. The message: get the foreigners out of here. Something is going to go down. Within a span of two minutes, the market transformed from a scene of casual shopping for fabric, nuts and other sundries to a frenzied attempt to put goods away and close up shop. Ahmed ushered us down a side alley. Soon we were outside, and everything appeared fine, save for a taxi driver who told Ahmed to be careful with us. We made it back to the hotel no problem.
On the way to dinner, the troops were again out in force, anticipating another prot
est. Like many of the youth here, many just looked bored. One overweight officer was lounging against a tree. Other men were standing around, some staring at their feet.On the way back to the hotel, they had closed the main road, which seemed to do the trick. One thing is for sure: the reaction to the election in Shiraz is nothing like what it is happening in Tehran.
On another note, if there is one thing I have learned during my time in this country, it is that Iranians love Americans. During my first days here, I identified myself as English, which I am, technically. But I soon realized that I get much more mileage out of my American identity. Britain and Iran have a troubled history. In the eyes of Iranians, Britain embodies imperialism. That may be one reason why the government is trying to purchase the second UK embassy up in the hills near the palace of Shah Pahlavi. The Brits also have a huge compound right in the center of town.But there is more to it than that. Ahmed, our guide, explained that Iranians appreciate the warmth and openness that Americans show to others who they hardly know. Maybe that it because Iranians are much the same way. Either way, it makes me proud to be an American.
...read more
Tehran Calms Down, at Least for the Moment
June 14, 2009
By Justin McMahan
TEHRAN - The second morning after the election, life seemed to return to
a sense of normalcy in the city. The street outside of the Enghelab hotel, where we are staying, was mostly clean. The bonfires had been removed and traffic was moving at a brisk pace.
The "agency" sent a substitute minder to accompany us. He suggested a museum, but we just needed to get online. Together, we trudged to Cafe 78, a local joint owned by an Iranian American originally from San Francisco. She closed the café today, so as to avoid the afternoon protests, but we were able to use her wireless connection from the steps outside to get some work done.
We had lunch with a friend of a friend from the Bay Area who asked not to have his name used. He convinc
ed our minder to let him take responsibility for us, which he did. At the moment, we are taking refuge at his apartment uptown, far from the protests. We know that they are occurring only because we were not able to check out the jewelry museum today, which was inaccessible due to protests.
Soon, we will head back downtown to attend a dinner with some reporters from out of town. Our understanding is that a pro-Ahmadinejad rally is getting underway, but that the Mousavi supporters have opted to postpone theirs until Monday. We shall see.
By Justin McMahan
TEHRAN - The second morning after the election, life seemed to return to
a sense of normalcy in the city. The street outside of the Enghelab hotel, where we are staying, was mostly clean. The bonfires had been removed and traffic was moving at a brisk pace.The "agency" sent a substitute minder to accompany us. He suggested a museum, but we just needed to get online. Together, we trudged to Cafe 78, a local joint owned by an Iranian American originally from San Francisco. She closed the café today, so as to avoid the afternoon protests, but we were able to use her wireless connection from the steps outside to get some work done.
We had lunch with a friend of a friend from the Bay Area who asked not to have his name used. He convinc
ed our minder to let him take responsibility for us, which he did. At the moment, we are taking refuge at his apartment uptown, far from the protests. We know that they are occurring only because we were not able to check out the jewelry museum today, which was inaccessible due to protests.Soon, we will head back downtown to attend a dinner with some reporters from out of town. Our understanding is that a pro-Ahmadinejad rally is getting underway, but that the Mousavi supporters have opted to postpone theirs until Monday. We shall see.
The first picture is of Andrea on the patio of a friend's apartment. The second is a view of Tehran from his rooftop patio.
...read moreSaturday, June 13, 2009
LOCKDOWN IN TEHRAN
City's access to cell phones and social networking sites cut off.
Access to Facebook, Twitter continues to be restricted; Internet acess is slow throughout the country.
Updated as of 11:43pm local time.
Access to Facebook, Twitter continues to be restricted; Internet acess is slow throughout the country.
Updated as of 11:43pm local time.
Mousavi Supporters Set Fires, Vandalize Buildings in Central Tehran
By Andrea and Justin McMahan
TEHRAN – Just outside of our hotel, supporters of former PM Mousavi set fires an
d broke windows in protest of the results of yesterday’s election. Motorcycles race up and down the street as protesters play a game of cat and mouse with security officials. Smoke is everywhere. Protesters have broken windows of the Bank of Tehran across the street.
Hotel staff usher foreign and Iranian hotel guests away from the chaos in the street and into the hotel lobby. One protester, his face covered by a Mousavi-green scarf, raced up to a foreigner photographing the scene and demanded she put her camera away.
As reporters on deadline cram the Enghelab Hotel business center in a frantic effort to upload stories, photos and video, the city is locking down. Just within the past hour, when we try to access social networking sites such as Twitter and Facebook, a message in Farsi indicates that the sites are no longer accessible. Cell phone access seems to have been shut down throughout the entire city.
As the call to prayer rings in the distance, it is unclear if security officials will be able to regain control of the streets of this city.
See below a short clip of the fires burning in the street outside of our hotel.
Updated as of 10:30pm local time.
TEHRAN – Just outside of our hotel, supporters of former PM Mousavi set fires an
d broke windows in protest of the results of yesterday’s election. Motorcycles race up and down the street as protesters play a game of cat and mouse with security officials. Smoke is everywhere. Protesters have broken windows of the Bank of Tehran across the street.Hotel staff usher foreign and Iranian hotel guests away from the chaos in the street and into the hotel lobby. One protester, his face covered by a Mousavi-green scarf, raced up to a foreigner photographing the scene and demanded she put her camera away.
As reporters on deadline cram the Enghelab Hotel business center in a frantic effort to upload stories, photos and video, the city is locking down. Just within the past hour, when we try to access social networking sites such as Twitter and Facebook, a message in Farsi indicates that the sites are no longer accessible. Cell phone access seems to have been shut down throughout the entire city.
As the call to prayer rings in the distance, it is unclear if security officials will be able to regain control of the streets of this city.
See below a short clip of the fires burning in the street outside of our hotel.
Updated as of 10:30pm local time.
Justin and Andrea Wish Carlos a Speedy Recovery
Andrea and Justin wish Carlos, Andrea’s father, a speedy recovery and send their love from Tehran. Anya wishes that she could be there, but can’t wait to bring back all of her pictures and stories to share next month. I love you, Dad.
Here is the rest of the article that will appear when the reader clicks the READ MORE link
Here is the rest of the article that will appear when the reader clicks the READ MORE link
Plumes of Black Smoke Rise From Streets of Central Tehran as Mousavi Supporters Protest Election Results
TEHRAN – From our room on the 12th floor of the Enghelab Hotel in central Tehran, we can see black smoke rising about a mile away. From the time that the earliest results were announced last night, Tehranis have been mostly quiet, although most people who we passed on the street today had a dejected look about them.
All that changed this evening. Supporters of former PM Mousavi have taken to the streets, burning tires and chasing away groups of Iranian security officials. Wearing the trademark green of the Mousavi campaign, they are marching up Vali Asr Avenue in the city center demonstrating their immense disappointment with the election results and belief that the election may not have been totally free and fair.
Mousavi has issued calls for calm, but people are saying that they have not seen this level of civic unrest since the 1979 Islamic revolution. No one knows what will happen or how this will turn out.
Here is the rest of the article that will appear when the reader clicks the READ MORE link
All that changed this evening. Supporters of former PM Mousavi have taken to the streets, burning tires and chasing away groups of Iranian security officials. Wearing the trademark green of the Mousavi campaign, they are marching up Vali Asr Avenue in the city center demonstrating their immense disappointment with the election results and belief that the election may not have been totally free and fair.
Mousavi has issued calls for calm, but people are saying that they have not seen this level of civic unrest since the 1979 Islamic revolution. No one knows what will happen or how this will turn out.
Here is the rest of the article that will appear when the reader clicks the READ MORE link
Andrea and Justin Visit Beautiful and Historic Tehran Museums
By Andrea and Justin McMahan
TEHRAN – Andrea and Justin had a great day today touring some of Tehran’s most well known museums. They began the day at the National Museum, where they learned that Iranian history is divided into three periods. The Pre-Historic period prior to 550 B.C., the Historic period between 550 B.C. and 600 A.D., and the Islamic period after the birth of Mohammed. The Islamic period building was under renovation.
Andrea and Justin also visited the Tehran MOMA. This fine museum included works from Ernst, Degas, Van Gogh and several Miros. It was also interesting to see Warhol’s famed portrait of Mao, as well as works by various Jewish artists, including Rauschenburg.
All in all, Andrea and Justin had a great day touring the city’s museums.
...read more
TEHRAN – Andrea and Justin had a great day today touring some of Tehran’s most well known museums. They began the day at the National Museum, where they learned that Iranian history is divided into three periods. The Pre-Historic period prior to 550 B.C., the Historic period between 550 B.C. and 600 A.D., and the Islamic period after the birth of Mohammed. The Islamic period building was under renovation.
Andrea and Justin also visited the Tehran MOMA. This fine museum included works from Ernst, Degas, Van Gogh and several Miros. It was also interesting to see Warhol’s famed portrait of Mao, as well as works by various Jewish artists, including Rauschenburg.
All in all, Andrea and Justin had a great day touring the city’s museums.
...read more
Friday, June 12, 2009
Polls Remain Open as Voters Decide Direction of Country
By Andrea and Justin McMahan
TEHRAN – In one of the most highly anticipated elections in this country’s hist
ory, millions of Iranians cast their vote in the presidential elections today. More than 45,000 polling stations around the country remain open as we write this (10pm local time), thanks to the Interior Ministry’s decision to push back the voting deadline from 6pm to 11pm.
...read more
TEHRAN – In one of the most highly anticipated elections in this country’s hist
ory, millions of Iranians cast their vote in the presidential elections today. More than 45,000 polling stations around the country remain open as we write this (10pm local time), thanks to the Interior Ministry’s decision to push back the voting deadline from 6pm to 11pm.
We had a chance to drop into a polling station held at a Mosque in c
entral Tehran and witness firsthand Iran’s democratic process in action. Hundreds of people stood outside in the hot sun waiting to vote, as well as a considerable media presence that included a van belonging to NBC New York. As we approached the mass of people outside the Mosque we could see that crowd control was starting to be an issue. People were scattered around the sidewalk trying to edge closer to the poll entrance. A couple of locals spotted us immediately and approached us with interest. They wanted to know, quite innocently, where we were from and what we were doing here. We then had a short discussion with one man whose German was about as good as our Farsi. Before long, another English-speaking man interrupted to introduce himself as a university professor. As soon as he asked us our opinion on the election, however, our minder jumped in and admonished him. The man fired back something in Farsi and then the two proceeded to get into a short shouting match. We politely excused ourselves and started to head back to our car. It was then that our minder gave us a tongue lashing and reminded us that since we are visiting Iran on a tourist visa we are not allowed to engage in any politically-related activities. This included having political discussions with strangers.
We traveled together with him to a smaller, more peaceful polling station in a school not far from our hotel. He spoke with the officials and in charge, and they agreed to allow us in if we promised not to take any pictures. Voters here must write the name of their candidate on a piece of paper, or a number that corresponds to it. After voting, voters dip their fingers in purple paint, just like in Iraq and Lebanon. There were roughly as many women as men working the poll.
The rumor mill began to circulate this evening. We are fairly certain that the government, in an attempt to head off spontaneous rallies, has suspended all text messaging for 24 hours. We have also been told that the Interior Ministry will not commence vote counting until all ballots are in, which is not likely to be until around midnight. Results will not come in until tomorrow. Even then, a candidate must win more than 50% of the vote to win the election. With four candidates, that is unlikely. Iranians may need to do this again next Friday.
entral Tehran and witness firsthand Iran’s democratic process in action. Hundreds of people stood outside in the hot sun waiting to vote, as well as a considerable media presence that included a van belonging to NBC New York. As we approached the mass of people outside the Mosque we could see that crowd control was starting to be an issue. People were scattered around the sidewalk trying to edge closer to the poll entrance. A couple of locals spotted us immediately and approached us with interest. They wanted to know, quite innocently, where we were from and what we were doing here. We then had a short discussion with one man whose German was about as good as our Farsi. Before long, another English-speaking man interrupted to introduce himself as a university professor. As soon as he asked us our opinion on the election, however, our minder jumped in and admonished him. The man fired back something in Farsi and then the two proceeded to get into a short shouting match. We politely excused ourselves and started to head back to our car. It was then that our minder gave us a tongue lashing and reminded us that since we are visiting Iran on a tourist visa we are not allowed to engage in any politically-related activities. This included having political discussions with strangers.We traveled together with him to a smaller, more peaceful polling station in a school not far from our hotel. He spoke with the officials and in charge, and they agreed to allow us in if we promised not to take any pictures. Voters here must write the name of their candidate on a piece of paper, or a number that corresponds to it. After voting, voters dip their fingers in purple paint, just like in Iraq and Lebanon. There were roughly as many women as men working the poll.
The rumor mill began to circulate this evening. We are fairly certain that the government, in an attempt to head off spontaneous rallies, has suspended all text messaging for 24 hours. We have also been told that the Interior Ministry will not commence vote counting until all ballots are in, which is not likely to be until around midnight. Results will not come in until tomorrow. Even then, a candidate must win more than 50% of the vote to win the election. With four candidates, that is unlikely. Iranians may need to do this again next Friday.
Thursday, June 11, 2009
Something Big May be About to "Pop"
By Justin and Andrea McMahan
TEHRAN - At 4am this morning, on the way from Khomeni international airport to the Korzar hotel in downtown Tehran, we drove through the city’s main square. It looked as if a confetti bomb had exploded. The streets were littered with paper, glitter, posters and various other election rally remnants. During each of the past ten nights, scores of thousands of Tehranis have taken to the streets to rally for one of the four Presidential candidates.
Tomorrow, Iranians around the world will go to the polls to vote for a new President. Unlike some countries, like Lebanon and Israel, Iranian nationals living overseas are permitted to vote. Friends with whom we had lunch today describe the election as the country’s most important civic event in years, if not decades. Until a few weeks ago, it looked as if President Ahmadinejad would cruise easily to reelection. Should that happen, and assuming the election is free and fair, it will signal a desire to maintain the status quo.
However, the situation on the ground is fluid. In the past week or so, former Prime Minister Mousavi has gained in the polls as more Iranians increasingly favor a return to a reformist government. Signs of easing social hard line policies are everywhere. On the streets of Tehran, women wear the hijab on the backs of their heads, with most of their hair showing. Short sleeves and painted fingernails are widely visible while the Basijis, the country’s moral police, refrain from cracking down.
Friends here are also in agreement that President Obama’s Cairo speech was well received by the Iranian people. It could be argued that it was his speech that swung the recent Lebanese election in favor of the US-backed March 14 coalition. Whether it will have the same effect on the election here in Iran remains to be seen.
Last night, a friend attended a dinner of foreign correspondents in Tehran. Although the guest of honor, Tehran Mayor Qalibaf , never showed up the event still managed to attract an A-list of foreign journalists including Bill Keller, Managing Editor of the New York Times, op-ed columnist Roger Cohen and Time Magazine’s Joe Klein. All were in agreement that the environment is ripe for something to “pop.” Indeed, some say they have not seen this level of civic fervor since 1979. No one knows what will be the outcome of tomorrow’s election, but what is certain is that millions of people will be elated with the result while millions will be gravely disappointed.
...read more
TEHRAN - At 4am this morning, on the way from Khomeni international airport to the Korzar hotel in downtown Tehran, we drove through the city’s main square. It looked as if a confetti bomb had exploded. The streets were littered with paper, glitter, posters and various other election rally remnants. During each of the past ten nights, scores of thousands of Tehranis have taken to the streets to rally for one of the four Presidential candidates.
Tomorrow, Iranians around the world will go to the polls to vote for a new President. Unlike some countries, like Lebanon and Israel, Iranian nationals living overseas are permitted to vote. Friends with whom we had lunch today describe the election as the country’s most important civic event in years, if not decades. Until a few weeks ago, it looked as if President Ahmadinejad would cruise easily to reelection. Should that happen, and assuming the election is free and fair, it will signal a desire to maintain the status quo.
However, the situation on the ground is fluid. In the past week or so, former Prime Minister Mousavi has gained in the polls as more Iranians increasingly favor a return to a reformist government. Signs of easing social hard line policies are everywhere. On the streets of Tehran, women wear the hijab on the backs of their heads, with most of their hair showing. Short sleeves and painted fingernails are widely visible while the Basijis, the country’s moral police, refrain from cracking down.
Friends here are also in agreement that President Obama’s Cairo speech was well received by the Iranian people. It could be argued that it was his speech that swung the recent Lebanese election in favor of the US-backed March 14 coalition. Whether it will have the same effect on the election here in Iran remains to be seen.
Last night, a friend attended a dinner of foreign correspondents in Tehran. Although the guest of honor, Tehran Mayor Qalibaf , never showed up the event still managed to attract an A-list of foreign journalists including Bill Keller, Managing Editor of the New York Times, op-ed columnist Roger Cohen and Time Magazine’s Joe Klein. All were in agreement that the environment is ripe for something to “pop.” Indeed, some say they have not seen this level of civic fervor since 1979. No one knows what will be the outcome of tomorrow’s election, but what is certain is that millions of people will be elated with the result while millions will be gravely disappointed.
...read more
Sunday, June 7, 2009
Fireworks in Beirut as March 14 Cruises to Victory
By Justin and Andrea McMahan
BEIRUT - On June 7, Lebanon held its most important national election in decades. With votes mostly counted, the March 14 coalition defied expectations by maintaining a parliamentary majority and picking up seats in key Christian districts. Despite a strong showing in the south by March 8 that includes Hezbollah and its Shia ally Amal, the election was a victory for the ruling coalition and a welcome turn of events for the United States, Israel and other western countries.
Fireworks light up the Beirut sky
As the clock neared midnight, and election results pointed to a March 14 victory, backers of the ruling coalition lit off fireworks all throughout northern Beirut. Hotel Le Gabriel threw its own victory party that included roman candles and other cascading fireworks lighting up the streets of Ashrafieh as sparks fell harmlessly on revelers.
...read more
BEIRUT - On June 7, Lebanon held its most important national election in decades. With votes mostly counted, the March 14 coalition defied expectations by maintaining a parliamentary majority and picking up seats in key Christian districts. Despite a strong showing in the south by March 8 that includes Hezbollah and its Shia ally Amal, the election was a victory for the ruling coalition and a welcome turn of events for the United States, Israel and other western countries.
Fireworks light up the Beirut sky
As the clock neared midnight, and election results pointed to a March 14 victory, backers of the ruling coalition lit off fireworks all throughout northern Beirut. Hotel Le Gabriel threw its own victory party that included roman candles and other cascading fireworks lighting up the streets of Ashrafieh as sparks fell harmlessly on revelers.
...read more
Election Lockdown in Beirut
Voters in Beirut give the election a'thumbs up'; city holds its breath as results trickle in
by Andrea McMahan
BEIRUT - Election Day has kicked off in Beirut and anticipation hangs in the air. Life size posters displaying the various candidates are plastered across the city while supporters have taken to the streets waving party flags and wearing colorful T-shirts expressing their party loyalty. In a move reminiscent of the Iraqi election, voters are marked with a purple thumb (such as Nadim and Dr. Georges Bashir pictured above) in an attempt to eliminate duplicate voting.
One would almost think the city was hosting the Super Bowl with all the excitement. However, the possibility is quickly dashed by the scores of military personnel that have been deployed to Beirut and other surrounding areas in an effort to minimize any potential trouble relating to the election. Troops are visible from all corners of the city, with many stationed in armored tanks at busy intersections around Beirut while military checkpoints monitor passing motorists. With the city heavily secured most people feel reassured taking to the polls. However, one can't escape the collective holding of breaths as the country awaits tomorrow's results.
Despite the tension, people are still going on with their day-to-day lives as many people in Beirut are accustomed to doing. The city has officially closed through Monday with businesses and restaurants going dark and limited interaction on the streets. However, a few cafes have remained open hoping to cater to the scores of citizens who have returned to Beirut to cast their vote and are seeking a slice of the nightlife. Many people we’ve talked to regard the brief reprieve as ‘business as usual’ and look forward to Tuesday when the city gets back into full swing.
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Saturday, June 6, 2009
Dispatch from Beirut - An Interview with Nick Blanford
Nick Blanford is a reporter for the Christian Science Monitor. He is also researching and writing a book on Hezbollah. In this interview, Nick discusses the Lebanese election, the role of Hezbollah, and their reaction to President Obama's Cairo speech.
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Friday, June 5, 2009
Happy Birthday Mayor Gurduna!
by Andrea McMahan
ISTANBUL - Recently in Istanbul we celebrated the birthday of former Mayor Ali Mufit Gurduna. Mayor Gurduna served as Mayor of Istanbul from 1998 until 2004 and is still a very popular figure around town. Our gracious and ever-social host, Allen Collinsworth, first met Mayor Gurduna while working at the East West Institute in New York (as did Justin) and then later served as the Mayor’s advisor when he moved to Istanbul in early 2000.
We joined the Mayor, his wife, daughter, and a few other close friends and family for an intimate party at Supper Club, a South Beach meets Bali-themed nightclub in downtown Istanbul. Here the crowd lingered over exotic cocktails while belly dancers and drag queens performed on stage. We joined our group by first kicking off our shoes and nestling into the oversized pillows that decorated our Moroccan-styled table. The club generously provided slippers for those squeamish about going barefoot. Allen made the initial introductions while we then proceeded to spend the evening getting to know our new Turkish friends over mojitos, champagne and an unforgettable chocolate pistachio cake.
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Wednesday, June 3, 2009
Better Learn How to Treat them Right
By Justin McMahan
ISTANBUL - When I first heard this Rihanna song, I was sure it would overnight become the girls’ empowerment mantra of 2009. It never did. The beating she suffered at the hands of Chris Brown might have dampened the creative promotion ideas of her handlers.
Anyway, it was around the same time that I did a brief stint working with Senator Boxer’s foreign policy team. Women’s rights is a high priority for her. During the recent committee reshuffling, she took the helm of the international organizations and women’s rights sub-committee of the Senate Foreign Relations Committee.
But it was in preparation for then Secretary-designate Clinton’s SFRC nomination hearing that I became more attuned to the issue, especially as it pertained to the Taliban’s treatment of women. I saw pictures of girls, burned by acid thrown by Taliban henchmen. Disturbing is an understatement. I consider myself a moral relativist, but there are some actions that leave the realm of relativism and enter the realm of moral absolutism. Throwing acid on girls who just want to go to school is one of them.
That said, these slides are not meant to be a commentary on the chador or burqua. Though I am not personally in love with the idea of women wearing burquas by mandate, it is not my place to judge a culture in which it is the practice. This means that these slides are in no way a commentary on religious or cultural practices in Turkey, Lebanon, Syria, Iran or Egypt.
What they are is a commentary on violence against women, whether it takes place in Swat, Buner, Washington or San Francisco. Turn on sound to listen.
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ISTANBUL - When I first heard this Rihanna song, I was sure it would overnight become the girls’ empowerment mantra of 2009. It never did. The beating she suffered at the hands of Chris Brown might have dampened the creative promotion ideas of her handlers.
Anyway, it was around the same time that I did a brief stint working with Senator Boxer’s foreign policy team. Women’s rights is a high priority for her. During the recent committee reshuffling, she took the helm of the international organizations and women’s rights sub-committee of the Senate Foreign Relations Committee.
But it was in preparation for then Secretary-designate Clinton’s SFRC nomination hearing that I became more attuned to the issue, especially as it pertained to the Taliban’s treatment of women. I saw pictures of girls, burned by acid thrown by Taliban henchmen. Disturbing is an understatement. I consider myself a moral relativist, but there are some actions that leave the realm of relativism and enter the realm of moral absolutism. Throwing acid on girls who just want to go to school is one of them.
That said, these slides are not meant to be a commentary on the chador or burqua. Though I am not personally in love with the idea of women wearing burquas by mandate, it is not my place to judge a culture in which it is the practice. This means that these slides are in no way a commentary on religious or cultural practices in Turkey, Lebanon, Syria, Iran or Egypt.
What they are is a commentary on violence against women, whether it takes place in Swat, Buner, Washington or San Francisco. Turn on sound to listen.
...read more
Tuesday, June 2, 2009
From Istanbul With Love
By Andrea McMahan
June 2, 2009
OLYMPOS, Turkey - These are pictures from the first leg of our trip in Istanbul. We've been in Turkey a little more than a week and are enchanted by the history, architecture and natural beauty of the country. If Turkey's hospitality is a precursor of what we can expect from the rest of the Middle East, then we're in for a treat! Stay tuned as we depart Thursday for Beirut.
June 2, 2009
OLYMPOS, Turkey - These are pictures from the first leg of our trip in Istanbul. We've been in Turkey a little more than a week and are enchanted by the history, architecture and natural beauty of the country. If Turkey's hospitality is a precursor of what we can expect from the rest of the Middle East, then we're in for a treat! Stay tuned as we depart Thursday for Beirut.
Saturday, May 30, 2009
Dispatch from Istanbul - An Interview with Allen Collinsworth
By Andrea McMahan
June 3, 2009
ISTANBUL - I sat down to talk with Allen Collinsworth, an American expat living in Istanbul, about his experiences in Turkey and his perspectives on how the Middle East can strengthen its relations with the west. A former director and fellow at the EastWest Institute in New York, Allen has spent the last eight years living in Istanbul helping to bridge east and west through financial and social entrepreneurship.
Most recently, Allen spent eight months in Iraq as a US defense contractor running one of the largest reconstuction projects in Anbar Province. His experience helping the private sector better understand the local climate and forge meaningful aliances in the middle east makes Allen a valuable source of information.
June 3, 2009
ISTANBUL - I sat down to talk with Allen Collinsworth, an American expat living in Istanbul, about his experiences in Turkey and his perspectives on how the Middle East can strengthen its relations with the west. A former director and fellow at the EastWest Institute in New York, Allen has spent the last eight years living in Istanbul helping to bridge east and west through financial and social entrepreneurship.
Most recently, Allen spent eight months in Iraq as a US defense contractor running one of the largest reconstuction projects in Anbar Province. His experience helping the private sector better understand the local climate and forge meaningful aliances in the middle east makes Allen a valuable source of information.
...read more
Wednesday, May 27, 2009
Dispatch from Istanbul - An Interview with Yaman Vuran
By Justin McMahan
May 27, 2009
ISTANBUL - Yaman Vuran is the owner of Lavie Cafe, a lively bistro in Istanbul's trendy Tesvikiye Nisantasi neighborhood - resembling, in many respects, New York's SOHO district. Having attended college in Florida and started businesses in Miami as well as Istanbul, Yaman has a unique perspective on the challenges facing entrepreneurs in both countries, as well as on some of the things that we can learn from each other.
In addition to being an accomplished entrepreneur, Yaman is also a gifted photographer. We have included a few pictures of his cafe, staff and his beloved Princes Island.
Click on the picture of Yaman to hear my full interview with him.
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May 27, 2009
ISTANBUL - Yaman Vuran is the owner of Lavie Cafe, a lively bistro in Istanbul's trendy Tesvikiye Nisantasi neighborhood - resembling, in many respects, New York's SOHO district. Having attended college in Florida and started businesses in Miami as well as Istanbul, Yaman has a unique perspective on the challenges facing entrepreneurs in both countries, as well as on some of the things that we can learn from each other.
In addition to being an accomplished entrepreneur, Yaman is also a gifted photographer. We have included a few pictures of his cafe, staff and his beloved Princes Island.
Click on the picture of Yaman to hear my full interview with him.
...read more
Friday, May 22, 2009
An Introduction to Dispatches
By Andrea McMahan
May 21, 2009
Welcome to our blog! I’m sure many of you have come here curious to learn more a
bout our daring and offbeat journey to the Middle East. To those who think we’ve lost out marbles, let me assure you it’s quite the opposite. The Middle East is an awe-inspiring place. Its intersection of beauty, history and passion makes it one of the most studied places in the world. Yet it is also a region filled with contradictions and nuance. Nations continue to vye for justice and purpose even if it comes with a heavy price, while the cultures across the region remain untapped and yet are constantly evolving.
So why the Middle East and why now? To be honest, we feel there’s no better time to visit these countries. President Obama’s popularity can be felt in every corner of the world and has transformed America’s perception abroad. What better time to visit this region than now, under the halo of hope and the potential for renewed acceptance. It is also an ideal time to visit because many of the countries are at an exciting political juncture: both Lebanon and Iran will hold national elections in early June. While we remain unsure if either of these events will unlock sweeping ideological reform, it will be interesting to see if the overtures of the West make an impact on the region’s political ambitions and potentially influence the diplomatic policies of the Middle East in the years ahead. But most importantly, we are anxious to learn whether the differences between our countries will overshadow the strength of our common goals.
We hope you find our forthcoming experiences entertaining and mildly educational. We’ll try and update this site as often as possible and in accordance with the visiting country’s policies. Whatever your reason for visiting our blog—whether you’re looking for an on-the-ground political perspective, insight into the contrasting cultures, or just to see if Justin and Andrea are still alive, we thank you for reading and hope you will stay tuned!
Salam aleikum,
Justin and Andrea
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May 21, 2009
Welcome to our blog! I’m sure many of you have come here curious to learn more a
bout our daring and offbeat journey to the Middle East. To those who think we’ve lost out marbles, let me assure you it’s quite the opposite. The Middle East is an awe-inspiring place. Its intersection of beauty, history and passion makes it one of the most studied places in the world. Yet it is also a region filled with contradictions and nuance. Nations continue to vye for justice and purpose even if it comes with a heavy price, while the cultures across the region remain untapped and yet are constantly evolving.So why the Middle East and why now? To be honest, we feel there’s no better time to visit these countries. President Obama’s popularity can be felt in every corner of the world and has transformed America’s perception abroad. What better time to visit this region than now, under the halo of hope and the potential for renewed acceptance. It is also an ideal time to visit because many of the countries are at an exciting political juncture: both Lebanon and Iran will hold national elections in early June. While we remain unsure if either of these events will unlock sweeping ideological reform, it will be interesting to see if the overtures of the West make an impact on the region’s political ambitions and potentially influence the diplomatic policies of the Middle East in the years ahead. But most importantly, we are anxious to learn whether the differences between our countries will overshadow the strength of our common goals.
We hope you find our forthcoming experiences entertaining and mildly educational. We’ll try and update this site as often as possible and in accordance with the visiting country’s policies. Whatever your reason for visiting our blog—whether you’re looking for an on-the-ground political perspective, insight into the contrasting cultures, or just to see if Justin and Andrea are still alive, we thank you for reading and hope you will stay tuned!
Salam aleikum,
Justin and Andrea
...read more
The View from Istanbul - Day One
By Justin McMahan
May 22, 2009
ISTANBUL - Dre and I launched this blog as a forum in which to write and post audio / video during the six weeks that we will spend in the Middle East. During the next forty plus days, we have reservations / plans to fly / drive to visit with friends in Turkey, Lebanon, Syria, Iran and Egypt. That is the framework. Beyond that, we’ll play it by ear.
Of course we will visit our fair share of mosques, souqs and ruins, but the driving f
orce behind this trip is a desire to learn from and about people from diverse ethnic backgrounds (Turkmen, Arabs, Persians, Kurds), religions (Judaism, Christianity and Islam), sects (Maronite, Sunni, Allawi, Shia) and so forth.
It should be an interesting time to be in the region. Iraq’s neighbors watch nervously as the U.S. draw-down continues apace. Though forced at gunpoint, and in the wake of more than 4,000 American and up to 100,000 Iraqi casualties, the inescapable fact is that a serious effort is underway to build a democracy in the heart of the Levant.
The roots of Iraqi civil society grow stronger by the day. Indeed, while we witness the demise of the San Francisco Chronicle and the Boston Globe, Baghdad is today home to roughly 100 functioning newspapers. Journalists there have no qualms about criticizing the al-Malaki government, or anyone else.
Elections are scheduled for early 2010. In the interim, will the al-Malaki government be able to maintain order but also govern with an even hand and reach out to Sunnis and Kurds? The fate of the Dawa party hangs in the balance. Countries like Egypt, which are grappling these very days with civil society and electoral reform, will watch closely.
We will be in Beirut during the June 7 election. If Hezbollah wins additional seats in parliament, as expected, U.S. and EU governments will be faced with a tough decision. Do they choose not to recognize another democratically elected Islamic party, as they did with Hamas after the January 2006 election, or do they agree on a framework similar to the way they dealt with the IRA’s Sinn Fein, and recognize Hezbollah’s political arm?
We will be in Iran during the June 12 election (also Justine and Stephen’s wedding… congratulations!). The world will watch closely to see if the Iranian people will vote to unclench their government’s fist by voting for the reformer Moussavi. Incidentally, I heard today that Moussavi’s wife is campaigning with and for him and taking on a very public advocacy role. This is a new development in Iranian political campaign gender dynamics.
Meanwhile, President Ahmadinejad, whose political fortunes have been damaged by the drop in oil prices, has campaigned tirelessly these past weeks in a bid to secure the support of his people for another term. Israel will watch closely as they weigh the pros and cons of a pre-emptive military strike on suspected nuclear facilities there. President Obama is expected to be in Israel during the Iran election, perhaps to personally ensure that they refrain from doing so. But even the election of Moussavi is unlikely to provide Israel with much comfort. He would not stop the nuclear program, at least not in the near term, and not without a generous package of incentives.
All of this against a backdrop of a new American President who gave his first interview to Al Arabiya, who made Mahmoud Abbas among the first leaders called and who told an audience in Ankara that “the West will never be at war with Islam.” Obama has taken a harder line with Israel, as evidenced not only by his recent meeting with PM Netanyahu, but also by remarks made by Biden at AIPAC and Secretary Clinton on repeated occasions. In a few weeks, Obama will deliver a highly anticipated speech in Cairo, still the Pennsylvania Avenue of the Arab street. This time, the Street will look for more than just a change in tone, but it will nonetheless be interesting to see how much the President’s remarks resonate in the region and at the polls.
...read more
May 22, 2009
ISTANBUL - Dre and I launched this blog as a forum in which to write and post audio / video during the six weeks that we will spend in the Middle East. During the next forty plus days, we have reservations / plans to fly / drive to visit with friends in Turkey, Lebanon, Syria, Iran and Egypt. That is the framework. Beyond that, we’ll play it by ear.
Of course we will visit our fair share of mosques, souqs and ruins, but the driving f
orce behind this trip is a desire to learn from and about people from diverse ethnic backgrounds (Turkmen, Arabs, Persians, Kurds), religions (Judaism, Christianity and Islam), sects (Maronite, Sunni, Allawi, Shia) and so forth.It should be an interesting time to be in the region. Iraq’s neighbors watch nervously as the U.S. draw-down continues apace. Though forced at gunpoint, and in the wake of more than 4,000 American and up to 100,000 Iraqi casualties, the inescapable fact is that a serious effort is underway to build a democracy in the heart of the Levant.
The roots of Iraqi civil society grow stronger by the day. Indeed, while we witness the demise of the San Francisco Chronicle and the Boston Globe, Baghdad is today home to roughly 100 functioning newspapers. Journalists there have no qualms about criticizing the al-Malaki government, or anyone else.
Elections are scheduled for early 2010. In the interim, will the al-Malaki government be able to maintain order but also govern with an even hand and reach out to Sunnis and Kurds? The fate of the Dawa party hangs in the balance. Countries like Egypt, which are grappling these very days with civil society and electoral reform, will watch closely.
We will be in Beirut during the June 7 election. If Hezbollah wins additional seats in parliament, as expected, U.S. and EU governments will be faced with a tough decision. Do they choose not to recognize another democratically elected Islamic party, as they did with Hamas after the January 2006 election, or do they agree on a framework similar to the way they dealt with the IRA’s Sinn Fein, and recognize Hezbollah’s political arm?
We will be in Iran during the June 12 election (also Justine and Stephen’s wedding… congratulations!). The world will watch closely to see if the Iranian people will vote to unclench their government’s fist by voting for the reformer Moussavi. Incidentally, I heard today that Moussavi’s wife is campaigning with and for him and taking on a very public advocacy role. This is a new development in Iranian political campaign gender dynamics.
Meanwhile, President Ahmadinejad, whose political fortunes have been damaged by the drop in oil prices, has campaigned tirelessly these past weeks in a bid to secure the support of his people for another term. Israel will watch closely as they weigh the pros and cons of a pre-emptive military strike on suspected nuclear facilities there. President Obama is expected to be in Israel during the Iran election, perhaps to personally ensure that they refrain from doing so. But even the election of Moussavi is unlikely to provide Israel with much comfort. He would not stop the nuclear program, at least not in the near term, and not without a generous package of incentives.
All of this against a backdrop of a new American President who gave his first interview to Al Arabiya, who made Mahmoud Abbas among the first leaders called and who told an audience in Ankara that “the West will never be at war with Islam.” Obama has taken a harder line with Israel, as evidenced not only by his recent meeting with PM Netanyahu, but also by remarks made by Biden at AIPAC and Secretary Clinton on repeated occasions. In a few weeks, Obama will deliver a highly anticipated speech in Cairo, still the Pennsylvania Avenue of the Arab street. This time, the Street will look for more than just a change in tone, but it will nonetheless be interesting to see how much the President’s remarks resonate in the region and at the polls.
...read more
Tuesday, March 31, 2009
Say No to the F-22
April 1, 2009
WASHINGTON – In the coming days, President Obama must decide whether to approve the request of Air Force chief of staff General Norton Schwartz for more F-22 Raptors. The request is in addition to the 183 F-22s – each costing some $138 million, or $361 million, if you include overall program costs – that Congress approved in 2006.
Lockheed Martin, which builds the F-22, as well as Boeing and Pratt & Whitney, frequently take out full page ads in The Hill and other publications read by lawmakers and their staff imploring Congress to continue to fund the program, For National Security. For Economic Stability. For the over 300 million Americans it keeps safe – and the more than 95,000 Americans who are employed directly and indirectly.
Not all members of the Defense establishment agree, however, that additional F-22s are needed to keep American safe. Secretary of Defense Robert Gates, for one, has expressed concern that procuring more F-22s would come at the expense of the more affordable F-35 Joint Strike Fighter.
From an economic standpoint, Gates’ position is important because the production of the F-35, which may be sold overseas, has the potential to generate sorely needed revenue. The F-22, meanwhile, has been banned for sale to foreign governments by House Appropriations Chairman David Obey (D-WI).
Considerable debate exists within the Defense establishment concerning the utility of investing tens of billions of dollars in next generation aircraft at a time when more robust counterinsurgency capabilities are needed to tamp down growing unrest in Afghanistan, Iraq and, possibly, Pakistan. Secretary Gates is adamant that the killing of Afghan and Pakistani civilians by errant bombs and missile attacks hinders our ability to win hearts and minds there.
Indeed, a central lesson from the early years of the Iraq and Afghanistan wars is that counterinsurgency is less about killing insurgents and more about devising political solutions to local problems while being shot at. Solving problems at the community level and building long-term, genuine partnerships with the local population is the best way to diminish insurgents’ influence. F-22s Raptors do not help to build these partnerships.
If President-elect Obama is serious about placing a renewed emphasis on nation building, as his statements concerning Afghanistan and Pakistan attest, he needs to work with Congress to ensure that already strained Defense budgets are not saddled with unnecessary appropriations for next generation fighter jets that do not help our effort there.
The F-22 Raptor program alone has cost American taxpayers $62 billion, almost twice the entire 2008 State Department budget of $35 billion, which is less than 8% of the $481 billion Defense Department budget (less than 6% if we include $162 billion in supplemental war funding). If we are serious about defeating insurgencies in South Asia, we need to shift resources away from nice-to-have next generation defense programs and instead fund the additional nation building responsibilities that we assumed when President Obama dispatched more than 17,000 additional U.S. troops to Afghanistan.
While it is understandable that some members of Congress, whose constituents include employees of Lockheed and other companies that build the F-22, advocate additional funding for the program, sound fiscal judgment and the need to win the wars in South Asia and Iraq make a strong case – if not for additional State Department funding - at least for postponing procurement of additional F-22s.
To preserve jobs, funds earmarked for the F-22 could still be allocated to Lockheed, but only to produce systems that will make us safer, like Lockheed’s Maritime Integrated Domain Awareness System (MIDAS). By allocating more money to MIDAS, President Obama would take an important step toward securing our nation’s ports and lessening the chance that terrorists will detonate a nuclear weapon in the port of Oakland, Long Beach or New Jersey.
President Obama talks tough about the importance of writing reality-based budgets and making sure that we have the money to cover expenditures. If that is not the case, he says, we need to make some hard budget choices. This is one of the easy ones. President Obama should say “No” to procuring additional F-22s.
Justin McMahan, a former Director at the EastWest Institute, is enrolled in Georgetown’s School of Foreign Service and MBA joint degree program.
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