Justin and Andrea Speak with GMA Re Iran

CAIRO - We left Iran and, after 12 hours of travel, are now in Egypt. Upon landing, we taped an interview for Good Morning America on ABC News about our experiences there. The piece, titled "US Tourists Witness Iranian Protests," aired Sunday morning but you can see the full video clip by going to http://abcnews.go.com/video/playerIndex?id=7892189

The segment is also on the abcnews.com homepage ticker. Bear in mind, we did this on virtually no sleep and having come straight off the plane! We look forward to your comments. You can also listen to Justin's phone interview with Kate, taped earlier, here: http://abcnews.go.com/video/playerIndex?id=7891347

Hope Fading, the Iranian People Look to Mr. Obama

By Justin McMahan
June 21, 2009

Note: Andrea and I left Tehran yesterday. We had no choice, really. So many people, fearing arrest, or worse, are getting out while they still can. We will continue to blog from Cairo.

CAIRO – A few days ago, John Kerry penned an op-ed in the New York Times in which he admonished fellow Senator John McCain for criticizing President Obama’s “tepid” response to the Iranian opposition demonstrations. Kerry was right. Mr. McCain’s desire to take on every super or regional power on behalf of the little guy is well intentioned, but ill advised. It would have been a big mistake for the U.S. to insert itself publicly into the Iranian fray, until yesterday.

Until yesterday, the Mousavi-led opposition movement was a force to be reckoned with. The former Prime Minister had the power to summon one million Iranians to Enghelab Square with little more than a rally announcement. Until yesterday, no one knew where the Mousavi train was heading. What was known is that the people who were willing to take to the streets in opposition to the current government far outnumbered those willing to do the same in support of it.

Until yesterday, it would have been a mistake for President Obama to publicly back Mousavi for two reasons. First, this was an election by Iranians, for Iranians. As many opposition supporters told me, vociferous White House support for Mousavi would only serve to undermine the cause.

When Obama made plain his desire to reach out to Iran, he removed the foreign enemy that serves to unite domestic support behind the President and Supreme Leader. Today, the Iranian government needs The Great Satan more than ever. In his sermon at Tehran University last Friday, the Supreme Leader endeavored to cast the UK in that role. That the UK has replaced temporarily the US as The Great Satan is likely due to the BBC’s omnipresent coverage of the current crisis. If CNN had been on the ground during the election, no way the UK would have stolen our Great Satan crown.

Just after the election, a story ran about the break-up of an Israeli plot to bomb twenty mosques on election day. It is impossible to know for sure, but I would bet good money that the motive was the same – to cast Israel in the role of villain of the Islamic Republic. Israel might one day strike the Natanz nuclear facility, but bombing twenty mosques on election day is just not their style. On a side note, having driven by the Natanz facility, I can attest that those puny anti-aircraft guns would not stand a chance in the event of an airstrike.

The second reason it would have been a mistake to publicly back Mousavi is that the US will need to deal with whichever government is in power. Had Obama come out for Mousavi the man, he would have started behind the eight ball in the talks that will likely take place by the end of the year with the Ahmadinejad regime .

But all that changed on Saturday. The outcome of the election is no longer in question. When the Supreme Leader followed through on his promise to crack down on opposition supporters, he took the wind out of the Mousavi sails. On that fateful afternoon, try as I might, I could not find a strand of green fabric within a five block radius of Enghelab hotel, because those seen wearing green were beaten by the police or Basij Militia.

Today, those who oppose the Ahmadinejad government are looking for some sign of hope. They are looking to Mr. Obama.

Now is the time for the President to make public his belief in the right of the Iranian people to gather publicly without fearing a Basiji beating. Supporters of Mr. Ahmadinejad have the right to demonstrate publicly. That right should be extended to all Iranians.

This is not a partisan position. It is a human rights position. The Iranian people have fought a valiant fight for the right to have their vote counted. They have sacrificed a great deal. Hundreds have been arrested. Some, like Neda, have been killed. The Iranian people love Americans, and they love Mr. Obama especially. As the leader of the free world, he should offer them some words of support. The Iranian people would never forget it.

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Supreme Leader Follows Through on Promise to Crack Down on Protesters

By Justin McMahan
June 20, 2009

TEHRAN - Police and Basij militia indiscriminately clubbed bystanders. Women screamed as a large group of Tehranis came running around a street corner toward us. We could not see from what they were running, but that it was Basijis administering brutal beatings is likely.

Today we learned that the Supreme Leader meant what he said yesterday at Tehran University. Opposition protests will no longer be tolerated. There were police dispatched all over the city. More than a mile from Enghelab (revolution) Square, I saw them stopping pedestrians, searching backpacks and throwing green scarves – a sign of support for the opposition – on the ground. Closer to the demonstration site, police employed water canons, tear gas and batons to break up the rally.

Around Eghelab hotel, where we are staying, I could not find a single person wearing green. Many walked briskly in the opposite direction of the planned protest site. Some looked as if they had planned to demonstrate, but then thought better of it. It is impossible to know for sure. In addition to the thousands of cops in camouflage, brandishing shields, helmets and clubs, there were thousands more in plain clothes armed with the same gear. They looked as though they might have stopped at the club store on the way home from work, then come to practice crowd control in the city center. It was one of these young guys who told us that a certain street was closed off. We turned and walked the other way.

Together with “Jerry,” our guide, we jumped into a taxi bus. After driving a few blocks, we were stopped dead in traffic, so we got out to walk. It was then that the chaos erupted. People were running and screaming. Most of them probably had no intention of joining the protest. Jerry steered us through a phalanx of riot police. As we approached another crowd of police, a few of them unleashed their batons on a man running down the alley. As Jerry reminded us several times, never run when the Basijis come, because they will assume you are among the protesters.

In this writer’s humble opinion, the opposition movement may not be over forever, but it is over for now. We leave Tehran in five hours.
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Supreme Leader Speech Poses Grave Dilemma for Opposition

June 19, 2009
By Andrea McMahan

TEHRAN - It is a dismal day here in Tehran. The opposition is struggling to keep itself together after being dealt a heavy blow yesterday. In a speech given at Tehran University, the Ayatollah Ali Khamenei, Iran’s Supreme Leader, said in no unclear terms that any further election protests are unacceptable by the government, and those persons choosing to participate in the protests would be breaking the law and face grave consequences. In addition, he stated that the elections were devoid of any cheating and that he unequivocally backed former President Mahmoud Ahmadinejad as the winner. This was a striking change in tone from earlier in the week, when the Ayatollah said that the government was looking into allegations of election fraud and had appointed a Guardian Council made up of the country’s clerical establishment to investigate disputed ballots. The Council was set to offer an answer on the election within ten days.

But instead they have now issued a warning to the people of Iran: if you do not accept the election outcome or any of our terms, you will be punished. They have said they will not tolerate dissent and will use the government’s power- presumably military force- to squelch further debate. Obviously the Opposition has a very difficult decision to make. They either continue to rally in the streets and face violent consequences—even possible death-- from the government’s Revolutionary Guard and Basiji, or they go under ground and risk losing the critical momentum that has helped propel their cause.

It is not confirmed where the Opposition’s presidential candidate, Mir Hussein Moussavi, is right now. Some say he is detained under house arrest while others claim he is moving surreptisously around the city. He continues to maintain a facebook page, offering details on upcoming protests and heightening rhetoric around the dissident’s cause. His supporters have found creative ways to access these updates since Facebook, Twitter and other social networking sites have been blocked across the country, mainly by tapping into friends and family abroad who can relay his message. However, most agree that it is only a matter of time before Mir Moussavi is arrested by the government, after which supporters have said there will almost certainly be even greater upheaval.

Either way, the outcome is bleak for the Opposition’s future. At a small gathering in Northern Iran yesterday, I was able to talk to several of the Opposition’s supporters and get a sense as to where they go from here. Many of them said they were feeling depressed, that the day’s speech had left them hurt but not entirely broken. They agreed it was not enough to deter them from marching in the protests Saturday and described how they would continue to ‘protest in silence’ by carrying signs that read “Where is your 63 percent?” rather than shouting slogans. They emphasized that theirs is a peaceful movement and acknowledged that it would almost certainly be met with violence in the hands of the regime. One Iranian woman, an art gallery owner, explained to me why she was willing to risk her life to march. “We have to do this,” she said. “If we don’t get out there and protest they [the government] will think it’s okay and they have to be stopped. We cannot live like this.”
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Happy Birthday Vanessa!

As the Iranian communications death grip tightens and I am unable to use Skype to call my little sister, I must use this space to wish her the happiest of birthdays. Happy Birthday, Vanessa...I love you very much!! - Justin

Iran in Pictures

By Andrea and Justin McMahan
June 18, 2009

ESFAHAN, Iran - Looking out the window of the Abbasi hotel in central Esfahan, all appears normal. Iranians seem more concerned with the fate of the national football team (six players wear green wristbands to show their support for the opposition) than with their struggle for free and fair elections. If tonight is to bring more protests, there is no sign of it yet.

In a few days, we will leave Iran. As we near the end of our time here, it seemed appropriate to share a few pictures. It is too risky now to photograph the protests, but we have been able to shoot some sites as well as the people who live in this country in turmoil. Turn on sound to listen.

An Esfahan Encounter

By Andrea and Justin McMahan
June 17, 2009

ESFAHAN, Iran - This morning, we climbed the Fire Temple for a better view of this city in which Iranians take so much pride. At the top, a man (pictured, right) asked where we were from, and was delighted to hear that we are from the States. Turns out he is a dual citizen who lives most of the time in Portland, Oregon, where he works as an engineer at Intel. Like us, he was touring the sites with his two nephews (also pictured). Without prompting, he spoke passionately about his love for America and his belief in the value of Iranians and Americans getting to know each other better. He is pleased that two of his Iranian family members are marrying Americans, but concerned about the ability of the American guests to keep up on the dance floor.

Our chance encounter was yet another example of a people who hold moderate positions, have nothing against Israel and resent their President, Mr Ahmadinejad, whose bellicose rhetoric, they say, is hardly representative of their views. Granted, a dual citizen is more likely than your average Iranian to support the opposition, but we have struggled to pinpoint the source of the supposed support for the current President. Some say it comes from the villages and rural areas, but yesterday we drove through much of the country on our way from Shiraz to Esfahan, and we can attest...there ain't no villages. The vast stretch of land in the center of the country is desert, with a smattering of wheat farmers and goat herders, hardly the rural masses that the government says came out in droves to vote for Mr Ahmadinejad.

Former PM and opposition leader Mousavi has decreed that tomorrow (Thursday) will be a day of mourning in honor of the protesters who were shot and killed in Tehran. That mourning will morph into protests is likely.

We are still unable to access facebook, twitter, BBC and many other media sites. Text messaging has not yet been turned on, though our local mobile phone (+98 937 96 39 523) is now, mercifully, working.

Today, the government issued a warning to anyone photographing protests. This will make it difficult for even Iranian citizens, well known for documenting the protests, from capturing the images that you have seen during the past five days. The government also said they will be cracking down on website and blogs. Fortunately, ours is just a touring blog. ...read more

Reflections on Iran's Youth

By Andrea McMahan

SHIRAZ, IRAN - First I want to acknowledge the outpouring of support and concern many of you have expressed in the last couple of days. Please rest assured that we are ok and out of harm’s way. We are really enjoying our time in Iran, meeting new people and watching a country wade through one of the most politically pivotal events in more than 30 years.

The whole experience has been somewhat surreal but has also served as a valuable wake up call to me. You can never appreciate your unwavering American freedoms until you experience an election in a developing world. I can recall so many times when I’ve shied away from a local election in my town because I was simply too busy or not interested. But the ability to vote and the knowledge that my vote would be counted equally and fairly never registered any doubt in my mind. Ever. And here I am watching a national presidential election unfold before my eyes, where millions of people have gone to the polls to cast their own sacred vote only to find it may never have made its ways out of the ballot box. The anger and betrayal one might feel is unbearable. It is hard not to feel a tremendous sympathy for this country, but more than that a kind of approbation for those mad-as-hell Iranians who flock to the streets night after night carrying their green bandanas and demanding justice.


My heart particularly breaks for the young people of Iran. Prior to the election, I had spoken with several young persons about the current state of politics and all of them were adamant in their disapproval for the current government. They said that they wanted to improve their country’s relations with the rest of their world, that they hated neither Israel nor America, and that they just wanted to live like other people their age are living in places like Europe and Dubai. And none felt this was possible under the current regime. They also talked about being stripped of everyday, practical conveniences that I enjoy unencumbered. For example, many divulged how frustrated they were with wanting to take their girlfriend on a date or travel somewhere together but couldn’t because of all of “the rules”. Others talked about wanting to visit America so badly but could never obtain a visa. Many also openly condemned their president and compared him outright to former President George W. Bush, saying that neither actually carried the support of the people and both operated on a platform of fear and deception. It is these young voices and all of their ambitions that I mourn here in Iran. So many of them came out en masse to peacefully cast a vote for their preferred candidate—and they played by the rules all the way to the ballot box. And now many of them must live with unanswered questions of whether their vote was ever tallied. I’ve heard some of them say, “If the government does not listen to the people, then I will never vote in Iran again.” I am afraid to believe them but their anger and cynicism is too real to ignore.

I hope the people of Iran—particularly the youth of this country- get the answers they deserve. Because when half of the country is ommitted from any electoral process that isn’t democracy. And that is the risk here in Iran, where more than 40 percent of the country is between the ages of 14 and 26, and where the youth will determine the fate of this nation, ultimately with or without the ballots.


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Shiraz Protests a Shadow of Events in Tehran

June 15, 2009
By Justin McMahan

SHIRAZ, Iran – Early this morning, we caught a flight to the Iranian city of Shiraz. Throughout most of the day, all was calm in this sleepy southern city. At lunch, two boys (pictured at right) wandered over to our table and asked to have their picture taken with us. Other locals stopped us on the street just to say hello, ask us where we are from and welcome us to their country.

This evening, we browsed the local souq, snapping pictures of local merchants, many of whom held up the peace sign, which has come to signify support for former Prime Minister Mousavi. A few minutes after we purchased a locally made scarf, a merchant said something in Farsi to Ahmed, our guide. The message: get the foreigners out of here. Something is going to go down. Within a span of two minutes, the market transformed from a scene of casual shopping for fabric, nuts and other sundries to a frenzied attempt to put goods away and close up shop. Ahmed ushered us down a side alley. Soon we were outside, and everything appeared fine, save for a taxi driver who told Ahmed to be careful with us. We made it back to the hotel no problem.



On the way to dinner, the troops were again out in force, anticipating another protest. Like many of the youth here, many just looked bored. One overweight officer was lounging against a tree. Other men were standing around, some staring at their feet.


On the way back to the hotel, they had closed the main road, which seemed to do the trick. One thing is for sure: the reaction to the election in Shiraz is nothing like what it is happening in Tehran.
On another note, if there is one thing I have learned during my time in this country, it is that Iranians love Americans. During my first days here, I identified myself as English, which I am, technically. But I soon realized that I get much more mileage out of my American identity. Britain and Iran have a troubled history. In the eyes of Iranians, Britain embodies imperialism. That may be one reason why the government is trying to purchase the second UK embassy up in the hills near the palace of Shah Pahlavi. The Brits also have a huge compound right in the center of town.

But there is more to it than that. Ahmed, our guide, explained that Iranians appreciate the warmth and openness that Americans show to others who they hardly know. Maybe that it because Iranians are much the same way. Either way, it makes me proud to be an American.

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Tehran Calms Down, at Least for the Moment

June 14, 2009
By Justin McMahan

TEHRAN - The second morning after the election, life seemed to return to a sense of normalcy in the city. The street outside of the Enghelab hotel, where we are staying, was mostly clean. The bonfires had been removed and traffic was moving at a brisk pace.

The "agency" sent a substitute minder to accompany us. He suggested a museum, but we just needed to get online. Together, we trudged to Cafe 78, a local joint owned by an Iranian American originally from San Francisco. She closed the café today, so as to avoid the afternoon protests, but we were able to use her wireless connection from the steps outside to get some work done.

We had lunch with a friend of a friend from the Bay Area who asked not to have his name used. He convinced our minder to let him take responsibility for us, which he did. At the moment, we are taking refuge at his apartment uptown, far from the protests. We know that they are occurring only because we were not able to check out the jewelry museum today, which was inaccessible due to protests.

Soon, we will head back downtown to attend a dinner with some reporters from out of town. Our understanding is that a pro-Ahmadinejad rally is getting underway, but that the Mousavi supporters have opted to postpone theirs until Monday. We shall see.

The first picture is of Andrea on the patio of a friend's apartment. The second is a view of Tehran from his rooftop patio.

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LOCKDOWN IN TEHRAN

City's access to cell phones and social networking sites cut off.
Access to Facebook, Twitter continues to be restricted; Internet acess is slow throughout the country.
Updated as of 11:43pm local time.

Mousavi Supporters Set Fires, Vandalize Buildings in Central Tehran

By Andrea and Justin McMahan

TEHRAN – Just outside of our hotel, supporters of former PM Mousavi set fires and broke windows in protest of the results of yesterday’s election. Motorcycles race up and down the street as protesters play a game of cat and mouse with security officials. Smoke is everywhere. Protesters have broken windows of the Bank of Tehran across the street.

Hotel staff usher foreign and Iranian hotel guests away from the chaos in the street and into the hotel lobby. One protester, his face covered by a Mousavi-green scarf, raced up to a foreigner photographing the scene and demanded she put her camera away.

As reporters on deadline cram the Enghelab Hotel business center in a frantic effort to upload stories, photos and video, the city is locking down. Just within the past hour, when we try to access social networking sites such as Twitter and Facebook, a message in Farsi indicates that the sites are no longer accessible. Cell phone access seems to have been shut down throughout the entire city.

As the call to prayer rings in the distance, it is unclear if security officials will be able to regain control of the streets of this city.

See below a short clip of the fires burning in the street outside of our hotel.



Updated as of 10:30pm local time.

Justin and Andrea Wish Carlos a Speedy Recovery

Andrea and Justin wish Carlos, Andrea’s father, a speedy recovery and send their love from Tehran. Anya wishes that she could be there, but can’t wait to bring back all of her pictures and stories to share next month. I love you, Dad.

Here is the rest of the article that will appear when the reader clicks the READ MORE link

Plumes of Black Smoke Rise From Streets of Central Tehran as Mousavi Supporters Protest Election Results

TEHRAN – From our room on the 12th floor of the Enghelab Hotel in central Tehran, we can see black smoke rising about a mile away. From the time that the earliest results were announced last night, Tehranis have been mostly quiet, although most people who we passed on the street today had a dejected look about them.

All that changed this evening. Supporters of former PM Mousavi have taken to the streets, burning tires and chasing away groups of Iranian security officials. Wearing the trademark green of the Mousavi campaign, they are marching up Vali Asr Avenue in the city center demonstrating their immense disappointment with the election results and belief that the election may not have been totally free and fair.

Mousavi has issued calls for calm, but people are saying that they have not seen this level of civic unrest since the 1979 Islamic revolution. No one knows what will happen or how this will turn out.

Here is the rest of the article that will appear when the reader clicks the READ MORE link

Andrea and Justin Visit Beautiful and Historic Tehran Museums

By Andrea and Justin McMahan

TEHRAN – Andrea and Justin had a great day today touring some of Tehran’s most well known museums. They began the day at the National Museum, where they learned that Iranian history is divided into three periods. The Pre-Historic period prior to 550 B.C., the Historic period between 550 B.C. and 600 A.D., and the Islamic period after the birth of Mohammed. The Islamic period building was under renovation.

Andrea and Justin also visited the Tehran MOMA. This fine museum included works from Ernst, Degas, Van Gogh and several Miros. It was also interesting to see Warhol’s famed portrait of Mao, as well as works by various Jewish artists, including Rauschenburg.

All in all, Andrea and Justin had a great day touring the city’s museums.

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Polls Remain Open as Voters Decide Direction of Country

By Andrea and Justin McMahan

TEHRAN – In one of the most highly anticipated elections in this country’s history, millions of Iranians cast their vote in the presidential elections today. More than 45,000 polling stations around the country remain open as we write this (10pm local time), thanks to the Interior Ministry’s decision to push back the voting deadline from 6pm to 11pm.

We had a chance to drop into a polling station held at a Mosque in central Tehran and witness firsthand Iran’s democratic process in action. Hundreds of people stood outside in the hot sun waiting to vote, as well as a considerable media presence that included a van belonging to NBC New York. As we approached the mass of people outside the Mosque we could see that crowd control was starting to be an issue. People were scattered around the sidewalk trying to edge closer to the poll entrance. A couple of locals spotted us immediately and approached us with interest. They wanted to know, quite innocently, where we were from and what we were doing here. We then had a short discussion with one man whose German was about as good as our Farsi. Before long, another English-speaking man interrupted to introduce himself as a university professor. As soon as he asked us our opinion on the election, however, our minder jumped in and admonished him. The man fired back something in Farsi and then the two proceeded to get into a short shouting match. We politely excused ourselves and started to head back to our car. It was then that our minder gave us a tongue lashing and reminded us that since we are visiting Iran on a tourist visa we are not allowed to engage in any politically-related activities. This included having political discussions with strangers.








We traveled together with him to a smaller, more peaceful polling station in a school not far from our hotel. He spoke with the officials and in charge, and they agreed to allow us in if we promised not to take any pictures. Voters here must write the name of their candidate on a piece of paper, or a number that corresponds to it. After voting, voters dip their fingers in purple paint, just like in Iraq and Lebanon. There were roughly as many women as men working the poll.

The rumor mill began to circulate this evening. We are fairly certain that the government, in an attempt to head off spontaneous rallies, has suspended all text messaging for 24 hours. We have also been told that the Interior Ministry will not commence vote counting until all ballots are in, which is not likely to be until around midnight. Results will not come in until tomorrow. Even then, a candidate must win more than 50% of the vote to win the election. With four candidates, that is unlikely. Iranians may need to do this again next Friday.

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Something Big May be About to "Pop"

By Justin and Andrea McMahan

TEHRAN - At 4am this morning, on the way from Khomeni international airport to the Korzar hotel in downtown Tehran, we drove through the city’s main square. It looked as if a confetti bomb had exploded. The streets were littered with paper, glitter, posters and various other election rally remnants. During each of the past ten nights, scores of thousands of Tehranis have taken to the streets to rally for one of the four Presidential candidates.

Tomorrow, Iranians around the world will go to the polls to vote for a new President. Unlike some countries, like Lebanon and Israel, Iranian nationals living overseas are permitted to vote. Friends with whom we had lunch today describe the election as the country’s most important civic event in years, if not decades. Until a few weeks ago, it looked as if President Ahmadinejad would cruise easily to reelection. Should that happen, and assuming the election is free and fair, it will signal a desire to maintain the status quo.

However, the situation on the ground is fluid. In the past week or so, former Prime Minister Mousavi has gained in the polls as more Iranians increasingly favor a return to a reformist government. Signs of easing social hard line policies are everywhere. On the streets of Tehran, women wear the hijab on the backs of their heads, with most of their hair showing. Short sleeves and painted fingernails are widely visible while the Basijis, the country’s moral police, refrain from cracking down.

Friends here are also in agreement that President Obama’s Cairo speech was well received by the Iranian people. It could be argued that it was his speech that swung the recent Lebanese election in favor of the US-backed March 14 coalition. Whether it will have the same effect on the election here in Iran remains to be seen.

Last night, a friend attended a dinner of foreign correspondents in Tehran. Although the guest of honor, Tehran Mayor Qalibaf , never showed up the event still managed to attract an A-list of foreign journalists including Bill Keller, Managing Editor of the New York Times, op-ed columnist Roger Cohen and Time Magazine’s Joe Klein. All were in agreement that the environment is ripe for something to “pop.” Indeed, some say they have not seen this level of civic fervor since 1979. No one knows what will be the outcome of tomorrow’s election, but what is certain is that millions of people will be elated with the result while millions will be gravely disappointed.
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Fireworks in Beirut as March 14 Cruises to Victory

By Justin and Andrea McMahan

BEIRUT - On June 7, Lebanon held its most important national election in decades. With votes mostly counted, the March 14 coalition defied expectations by maintaining a parliamentary majority and picking up seats in key Christian districts. Despite a strong showing in the south by March 8 that includes Hezbollah and its Shia ally Amal, the election was a victory for the ruling coalition and a welcome turn of events for the United States, Israel and other western countries.

Fireworks light up the Beirut sky

As the clock neared midnight, and election results pointed to a March 14 victory, backers of the ruling coalition lit off fireworks all throughout northern Beirut. Hotel Le Gabriel threw its own victory party that included roman candles and other cascading fireworks lighting up the streets of Ashrafieh as sparks fell harmlessly on revelers.
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Election Lockdown in Beirut

Voters in Beirut give the election a'thumbs up'; city holds its breath as results trickle in
by Andrea McMahan

BEIRUT - Election Day has kicked off in Beirut and anticipation hangs in the air. Life size posters displaying the various candidates are plastered across the city while supporters have taken to the streets waving party flags and wearing colorful T-shirts expressing their party loyalty. In a move reminiscent of the Iraqi election, voters are marked with a purple thumb (such as Nadim and Dr. Georges Bashir pictured above) in an attempt to eliminate duplicate voting.


One would almost think the city was hosting the Super Bowl with all the excitement. However, the possibility is quickly dashed by the scores of military personnel that have been deployed to Beirut and other surrounding areas in an effort to minimize any potential trouble relating to the election. Troops are visible from all corners of the city, with many stationed in armored tanks at busy intersections around Beirut while military checkpoints monitor passing motorists. With the city heavily secured most people feel reassured taking to the polls. However, one can't escape the collective holding of breaths as the country awaits tomorrow's results.

Despite the tension, people are still going on with their day-to-day lives as many people in Beirut are accustomed to doing. The city has officially closed through Monday with businesses and restaurants going dark and limited interaction on the streets. However, a few cafes have remained open hoping to cater to the scores of citizens who have returned to Beirut to cast their vote and are seeking a slice of the nightlife. Many people we’ve talked to regard the brief reprieve as ‘business as usual’ and look forward to Tuesday when the city gets back into full swing.
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Dispatch from Beirut - An Interview with Nick Blanford

Nick Blanford is a reporter for the Christian Science Monitor. He is also researching and writing a book on Hezbollah. In this interview, Nick discusses the Lebanese election, the role of Hezbollah, and their reaction to President Obama's Cairo speech.
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Happy Birthday Mayor Gurduna!

by Andrea McMahan

ISTANBUL - Recently in Istanbul we celebrated the birthday of former Mayor Ali Mufit Gurduna. Mayor Gurduna served as Mayor of Istanbul from 1998 until 2004 and is still a very popular figure around town. Our gracious and ever-social host, Allen Collinsworth, first met Mayor Gurduna while working at the East West Institute in New York (as did Justin) and then later served as the Mayor’s advisor when he moved to Istanbul in early 2000.

We joined the Mayor, his wife, daughter, and a few other close friends and family for an intimate party at Supper Club, a South Beach meets Bali-themed nightclub in downtown Istanbul. Here the crowd lingered over exotic cocktails while belly dancers and drag queens performed on stage. We joined our group by first kicking off our shoes and nestling into the oversized pillows that decorated our Moroccan-styled table. The club generously provided slippers for those squeamish about going barefoot. Allen made the initial introductions while we then proceeded to spend the evening getting to know our new Turkish friends over mojitos, champagne and an unforgettable chocolate pistachio cake.


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Better Learn How to Treat them Right

By Justin McMahan

ISTANBUL - When I first heard this Rihanna song, I was sure it would overnight become the girls’ empowerment mantra of 2009. It never did. The beating she suffered at the hands of Chris Brown might have dampened the creative promotion ideas of her handlers.

Anyway, it was around the same time that I did a brief stint working with Senator Boxer’s foreign policy team. Women’s rights is a high priority for her. During the recent committee reshuffling, she took the helm of the international organizations and women’s rights sub-committee of the Senate Foreign Relations Committee.

But it was in preparation for then Secretary-designate Clinton’s SFRC nomination hearing that I became more attuned to the issue, especially as it pertained to the Taliban’s treatment of women. I saw pictures of girls, burned by acid thrown by Taliban henchmen. Disturbing is an understatement. I consider myself a moral relativist, but there are some actions that leave the realm of relativism and enter the realm of moral absolutism. Throwing acid on girls who just want to go to school is one of them.


That said, these slides are not meant to be a commentary on the chador or burqua. Though I am not personally in love with the idea of women wearing burquas by mandate, it is not my place to judge a culture in which it is the practice. This means that these slides are in no way a commentary on religious or cultural practices in Turkey, Lebanon, Syria, Iran or Egypt.

What they are is a commentary on violence against women, whether it takes place in Swat, Buner, Washington or San Francisco. Turn on sound to listen.

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From Istanbul With Love

By Andrea McMahan
June 2, 2009

OLYMPOS, Turkey - These are pictures from the first leg of our trip in Istanbul. We've been in Turkey a little more than a week and are enchanted by the history, architecture and natural beauty of the country. If Turkey's hospitality is a precursor of what we can expect from the rest of the Middle East, then we're in for a treat! Stay tuned as we depart Thursday for Beirut.